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Interview | Laurance Rassin

Posted by fashionentrepreneurreport On Sunday, June 29, 2008 0 comments

Laurance Rassin is an emerging designer/artist that hand paints on his silks and then turns them into beautiful feminine yet completely unique garments.  He sold at Christies before he sold one piece to a retailer.  Nolcha sat down with him to find out how he was discovered and how he is launching his line on an emerging designer’s budget.

How did you got into Saks without ever selling a garment?
I showed some designs to a friend of a friend that had experience dealing with department stores.  They looked at my samples and said, "Damn that's different..!" art print, wrapped fine silk garments. 

How did you secure the Saks deal? 
By having something very unique in the marketplace and ironically hitting trend on the cusp of art and fashion fusion which was the rage spring 07 in  NYC, Paris and Milan. 

How long have you been in Saks?
I hit Saks nationwide a few days before Thanksgiving ‘07 (November) 

What was the cost of production for this collection? Did your choice of manufacturer and fabrics affect this dramatically? 
I used arguably the finest NYC factory and spared no expense at making a great first impression.  That’s what got me to Saks in the first place.  Their customers expect a certain quality and I intend to over-exceed expectations.

Was there a price tag the Retailer wanted you to build your line around?
$355 per dress and $255 tops.  I think it is a great price point for a fine silk garment.

Did you sacrifice profits to achieve the commercial affect of being in Saks and the long term benefits it will bring to your collection? 
You never make money out of the gate.  Be prepared to lose some or even big. 

What are the three major financial factors you face when being placed in a major retailer?
Finding the production monies and development funding and the best factory to make my line, which means spending more than I wanted to. Shipping on time is the name of the game, and this was no easy task considering how late in the game I got work order and this is more common than not. 

What is the financial effect of being in a major retailer to date? 
Being in the window of Saks Palm Beach and having corporate sponsors like Steinway & Sons Pianos and Vespa scooters behind me as potential sponsors has helped me posture my clothes and art to other retailers and within Saks. 

What are your financial tips to other emerging designers trying to break into the major stores?
Find a hole in the marketplace and running through, past and around the pack.  I have always been true to my core talent. By this I mean using my art as a way to catapult my fashions to the top.  I also suggest being adaptable and being able to react fast!  Saks sportswear buyers said we like this silhouette but can you do this and that, and I said yes.  In less than 10 days I turned new samples with new fabric and got  test order..5 markets, 6 garments, 300 piece test order.

www.digitalookbook.com
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Life is Getting Easier for NYC Designers

Posted by fashionentrepreneurreport On Tuesday, June 24, 2008 0 comments
Young designers in New York City can find a new home. The Garment Industry Development Corporation (GIDC) has leased a space in the midtown Garment District to showcase a group of select emerging designers they are working with.

GIDC, a non-profit organization, has been providing sourcing and business development assistance to New York City’s apparel community for over 20 years. The young designers’ showroom is a natural extension of this effort and will provide end to end support for emerging designers who produce locally.
Soaring real estate prices and unresolved zoning issues continue to cloud the future of midtown’s Garment District. Those most affected fall into 2 categories, contract manufacturers and young designers. The lack of affordable space in the District has forced contract manufacturers to move or close, and prevents young designers from gaining access to buyers during market weeks.

“ By providing and promoting a space to showcase the multitude of design talent that we are working with in New York City, we not only nurture the creative but provide needed work for the contract manufacturers that our designers are dependent on” says Andy Ward, Director of Sourcing at GIDC, who will be managing the Young Designers program.

A selection committee consisting of industry, press and design faculty participants will review candidate submissions for inclusion into the program.

Fatiah Hosein, Acting Executive Director at GIDC states, “Our goal is to empower young designers and provide a means to achieve their creative vision and independence so that eventually, they can flourish on their own thus providing an opening for the next up and coming designer.”

Is life getting easier for young designers in New York City? You bet it is!

GIDC is a non-profit organization that for the past 23 years works to strengthen and promote New York’s apparel industry, offering an array of free services, serving as the link between designers & brands and NYC’s high quality producers. GIDC is Where Design Meets Production. For more information about the young designer showroom or GIDC’s other services, visit www.gidc.org, send an email to info@gidc.org This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it , or call 212.366.6160.
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How to Prepare a Marketing Plan

Posted by fashionentrepreneurreport On Tuesday, June 24, 2008 0 comments
You have your sketches, patterns and even your samples but what steps do you take to market your line? Write yourself a marketing plan and you are taking a step in the right direction. It is not as daunting as it sounds, I promise! Let me simplify it for you.

Your marketing plan should be used as a guide for what you PLAN to do in the upcoming year. Writing down your plan will help you to keep focused, and provide you with an overall view as well as the minute details you need to factor in. In fact, if you are looking to secure financing, a business plan is essential and your marketing plan is an integral part of that. You do not want or need to reinvent the wheel when writing a marketing plan, just follow these easy steps to success! It does not need to be long, a one page plan should suffice, use this as an outline and fill in your information or if you are especially adventurous, you can add graphs and charts, but this is not necessary.

  1. Describe your product. Example: Victorian inspired evening gowns, fine art inspired t-shirts, tween activewear, vintage inspired handbags, jeweled headbands, etc
  2. Define your customer: What is the age range? Gender? Where do they shop? How much do they spend? What is their lifestyle?
  3. Price your product for both wholesale and suggested retail. Figure out how much it costs you to make each item and what you need to make off each item and you have your margins for wholesale. If you are taking on sales yourself, research stores you want to be in. Know their price points first before you set up an appointment to make sure your style and pricing are in line with theirs.
  4. Research and list your competitors with similar style. Are these brands successful? If so, what did they do? If not, why? Learn from them.
  5. Marketing goals: list them and the strategies you will implement to achieve them such as trade shows, runway shows, PR, sample sales, trunk shows, consumer driven fashion events, celebrity outreach and gifting suites.
  6. Figure your marketing budget:  PR, advertising, lookbooks, sales representative/showroom fees, and events (runway shows, vendor booths, trade shows, etc.)
  7. Know your launch dates: list them for each buying season.  Do your research! This is crucial as buyers order at VERY specific times a year. Be prepared to have your samples ready to show.
  8. SWOT- List your strengths, weaknesses, opportunities and threats.  
  • Examples:
  • Strengths= good marketing budget
  • Weaknesses= inefficient production capabilities
  • Opportunities= runway shows
  • Threats= not enough capital to fill orders.
This simple tool will help you on your way to successfully growing your brand. Make sure to mention the market niche you are targeting and how you will appeal to clients on this market. Keep it updated and refer to it often. Especially your goals.

- Rebecca Strong
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Interview | Fashion TV

Posted by fashionentrepreneurreport On Monday, June 23, 2008 0 comments

Fashion Television, once a favorite of design obsessed individuals who were glued to their television 24/7 waiting for their favorite collection to pop up on cable, is now providing immediate fashion fixes on ftv.com. 

FTV is the biggest Fashion Medium in the world for fashion, beauty and style. It is the only 24/7 hour video channel internationally known to more than 2,000 cable systems, 30 satellite systems, reaching 140 countries on 6 continents with a confirmed reach of 300 million households. FTV is prompt and educational while being sophisticated and fashionable. Fashion TV is one of the best distributed channels worldwide that is viewed by more males vs. females with a higher range of 18-34 age groups. 80% of the audience views FTV from home and is watched more than any other TV channel on cable network. FTV is very popular in fashion related business spaces such as salons and other public spaces.  More than half of the viewing spectators are English speaking, and French speaking, wh.ich means all exposure is showcased worldwide
   
Lynn Furge:  How has Fashion TV has revolutionized fashion online?

FTV:  The uprising and world's most fabulous fashion designers can all be found on Fashion TV and on FTV online. If you're captivated by the dazzling minds behind the striking clothes, you'll for sure be enchanted by one of FTV’s series such as "Designers at Work" and "Designers Talk” both which can be watched on FTV or online. Since 1997, Fashion TV has revolutionized the world of fashion entertainment through cable television and is now doing the same on the World Wide Web. But what makes Fashion TV so relishing to our viewers is that we’re more than just informative on fashion, we're also delightfully entertaining.

LF:  What has fashion TV has done for the industry?

FTV:  Fashion TV is successful because it has the ultimate coverage of famous fashion designers and their prêt-à-porter and haute couture innovations. Broadcasting already made and uprising fashion designers daily on FTV is exposing their name and brand out worldwide. By doing so, this level of awareness towards the fashion world is uncovered to the rest of the world.

LF:  Why an online business instead of print?

FTV:  Fashion TV isn’t a morning newspaper that should be read at breakfast. FTV is more than just an informative with news, its entertaining, its imagery, and its exposure. Being exposed online is better because on the minute updates can be made daily, it’s quicker, it’s faster and more efficient to all those fashion fanatics. Not to mention interviews and backstage moments with designers and models, no one can compare to FTV online. All coverage is guaranteed with Fashion TV and professionals rely on FTV and FTV online (www.ftv.com) for the insider spotlight on the fashion industry.

LF:  How is FTV compared to MySpace and YouTube?

FTV:  Just like YouTube, Fashion TV combines a wide variety of video content, including runway clips, TV clips and event videos that are broadcasted globally to recap everything currently happening in the fashion world. Like Myspace, FTV also reveals personal blogs on all fashion designers, uprising and established to the fashion industry, débuting their latest creations for the world to see.

LF:  How does FTV choose what to show online?

FTV:  FTV pretty much leaves what is needed to be seen online, which is just about everything that you might have missed on TV. Although FTV is a 24/7 video channel everything will be rerun so there’s no need to panic if you missed your favorite shows. But for those anxious viewers who curiously need to be updated and want to know what’s happening, www.ftv.com has all the latest updates and keeps spectators in the know on everything in the Fashion world.

LF:  Is there a peak time for the shows?

FTV:Since FTV is a 24/7 hour video channel, if you miss out the first time, no worries you can catch again. There are a few guilty pleasures like Shoot Me! and Midnight Hot which have become fashion TV fans top watched shows. When you're ready to put work aside and enjoy a bit of fun, stay tuned to Fashion TV and fashion TV online (www.ftv.com) for series like these.

LF:  What else can we expect from FTV in the future

FTV:  Expect the unexpected. FTV is successful because we continue to keep our audience feeling part of our family and up-to-date with everything they need to know in the Fashion world. No secrets, no lies, all raw hands on publicity on designers, models, runways and more. Be sure to stay tuned to FTV for the latest gossip, talk and news on your guiltiest pleasures.

LF:  What have your 10 years in this business been like?

FTV:  Nothing keeps me more on my toes than working for FTV. Always knowing what is happening in the industry and my awareness level towards fashion is better than ever. The industry itself is a hard competitive and spirited life to maintain, but once focused and driven to do your best, your results are the greatest. No other job in the world can give me the satisfaction that I get out of working for FTV and the people, events and life I get out of being around the most prestige business internationally known to the Fashion world.

FTV Stats:FTV is the biggest Fashion Medium in the world for fashion, beauty and style. It is the only 24/7 hour video channel internationally known to more than 2,000 cable systems, 30 satellite systems, reaching 140 countries on 6 continents with a confirmed reach of 300 million households. FTV is prompt and educational while being sophisticated and fashionable. Fashion TV is one of the best distributed channels worldwide that is viewed by more males vs. females with a higher range of 18-34 age groups. 80% of the audience views FTV from home and is watched more than any other TV channel on cable network. FTV is very popular in fashion related business spaces such as salons and other public spaces.  More than half of the viewing spectators are English speaking, and French speaking, wh.ich means all exposure is showcased worldwide www.ftv.com  
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How to Save Money

Posted by fashionentrepreneurreport On Sunday, June 22, 2008 0 comments

As a small business owner one of your primary concerns is often how to minimize costs while maximizing profits, in the fashion industry this may mean saving money on fabrics, clothing, accessories or other items that you require.

Saving Money for Dressmakers and Fashion Designers

If you are a fashion designer then your primary costs will probably be fabric and equipment to produce your clothing. You can minimize costs and save money in these areas by ordering wholesale (don’t be afraid of minimum orders on fabric), looking out for sales, shopping around both online and offline before buying your materials and learning how to do your own machine repairs.  Are You Home-Based? – Find Out About Tax Incentives

If you run your fashion-related business from home then you should also look into tax incentives that you may be able to apply for. These may also include costs related to your business travel and other items that you use for business purposes.

Contribute to Charity and Get More Tax Deductions (and More Clients)

By contributing to charity you are often able to get more tax deductions for the items you contribute or for costs related to your service in those charities. In addition, by making it known that you are giving some of your proceeds to charity you often encourage more clients to come to you as their way of contributing to these charities.

Save Money on Make-up and Cosmetics

Make-up and cosmetics are often a large part of the fashion industry. These cosmetics can become very expensive if you are using ordinary store-bought cosmetics but there are many cheaper items which can work just as well and be an excellent treatment for your skin. Green tea for example has been found to be as good as other acne treatments for treating acne and pimples, while even just following a healthy lifestyle – drinking plenty of water, eating a healthy diet and exercising regularly can minimize your need for additional help in this area.

Budget and Price Carefully to Achieve Minimum Costs and Maximum Profits

When budgeting and buying materials, machines and other supplies, carefully look at what the influence of different purchases will have on your profit. Divide the cost of a piece of fabric by the number of items it will be able to make in order to get a cost per item and calculate your profit from there. Work on getting the maximum profit from each item. You should also look at other ways that you can save money by using sales, bargains or even making your own cosmetics and clothes.

As a small business owner in the fashion industry you should work on minimizing costs and maximizing profits by being careful what fabric, supplies and machines you purchase. Make use of sales and minimize your expenditure on cosmetics by making your own or using cheaper solutions and a healthy lifestyle. Budget carefully to get the maximum use from each dollar you have.

- Stacey Francis
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Enhanced 3D Runway Designer 10

Posted by fashionentrepreneurreport On Friday, June 20, 2008 0 comments
OptiTex, the industry leader in 2D/3D CAD/CAM design technology for cut-fabric related industries, has made its best-of-breed software even better by enhancing one of its core products, 3D Runway Designer 10, with remote collaboration tools.

“We’ve integrated several new features into Runway 10 to smooth the collaboration between designers and production professionals,” states Ran Machtinger, President and CEO of OptiTex, Ltd. “Chief among the improvements is an open chat room, which allows production and image files in 2D and 3D to be sent between partners participating in the design process. They can then easily modify these images using our new chalk tool, allowing design and production staff to draft on-screen together, in real time from remote locations.”  

These new and upgraded features represent another step forward in the OptiTex revolution, allowing virtually all of the design process to be performed digitally. 

3D Runway Designer 10 has new customizable features and options, allowing designers the freedom to change textures, materials, colors and stitches or add logos on screen without using a single piece of fabric. The garment can then be seen “in action” on OptiTex's 3D models, all of which are fully adjustable to reflect any body type. 
OptiTex’s on-screen environment is customizable to enhance the designer’s creative process. The accuracy of the images eliminates material, energy and time waste, providing rapid ROI as well as an environmentally friendly application.

The new, collaborative features in 3D Runway Designer 10 dovetail perfectly with another area in which OptiTex has experienced a surge in growth: Utilization as an essential learning tool in educational settings, ranging from renowned universities to vocational training centers.

“Over the last two years we’ve seen phenomenal acceptance of our software worldwide by major educational institutions. They need to provide their students with a strong background in the latest design tools, allowing them to be immediately employable upon graduation. Now, instructors can work remotely with students in an e-learning environment to ensure their projects are viable as they prepare to enter the workforce,” concludes Machtinger.

OptiTex International, Mrs. Tania Fuchs | Tel: +972-3-9049979 | Fax: +972-3-9042710
optitex.int@optitex.com This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it  | www.optitex.com 

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Competition | Make Your Mark in Fashion

Posted by fashionentrepreneurreport On Thursday, June 19, 2008 0 comments
Make Your Mark in Fashion was launched in October 07 as a national competition to find the next generation of socially and environmentally aware fashion entrepreneurs. The competition was open to teams of young people aged 14 –30 and attracted entrants from all over the UK, ranging from young fashion professionals to school age students.
 

Nine leading ethical fashion businesses signed on to be the Make Your Mark in Fashion mentors: Ciel, Junky Styling, THTC, Terra Plana, Enamore, From Somewhere, Makepiece, Juste, & Liv.


Mentors chose one team to represent them at the Make Your Mark in Fashion semi-final held on 17th April 08 and sponsored by The British Council. At the event three finalists were chosen to work with their mentor business to produce their range for showing on the catwalk in Fashion Week September 08. 




The Finalists
:.Miawi for Junky Styling
Miawi are a team with a social and environmental conscience, using second-hand clothing sourced in Malawi as the basis for their range and then combining the recycled fabrics with traditional Malawian textiles.

:. Berrie for Enamore (above image)
The key to the Berrie brand ethos is to have fun whilst offering high quality and sustainability in equal measure. The Berrie range will feature beautiful original prints, vintage styling, and luxury fabrics.


:. R.A.J.E for THTC
The R.A.J.E team site influences as diverse as Japanese culture and British wildlife. Having carefully considered how best to apply their individual skills they conceived an original range of clothing designed to cater for different women's body shapes; it's a truly sustainable and innovative concept.


For more information about the event or campaign contact Alex McIntosh alexm@makeyourmark.org.uk

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Second Annual Independent Handbag Awards

Posted by fashionentrepreneurreport On Wednesday, June 18, 2008 0 comments

The Second Annual Independent Handbag Awards, cleverly called “The Handbag Oscars” by many a fashion fanatic, took place at the New York Historical Society.  Providing independent designers with the best opportunity to showcase their pieces and make an impression on the accessory market, the Handbag Awards started off without a hitch as the fashion-savvy folk met and mingled. I could barely concentrate on anything else but the beautiful bags on display, varying in design, material, and style. Basically, I was in handbag heaven. 
 
As the night progressed, the crowd grew eager with anticipation while they waited to hear the names of the chosen finalists of each category. The prize? Well, aside from gaining recognition and credibility, the selected designers will not only have their handbags exhibited in a window display at Henri Bendel but will also have the opportunity to partake in a trunk show to promote their designs.


Emily Blumental, foundress of the IHDA and Handbag Designer 101, delivered a lovely opening address and sent the audience into a minor uproar of excitement upon mentioning that a special guest was in our midst: Judith Leiber! Considering her fortress of a household name and legendary status within the market of accessory design, it was no surprise to hear that Leiber was the recipient of the IHDA’s Iconoclast Award. 

A fashion panel of expert judges and industry gurus from Handbag Designer 101 selected the award recipients of each of the remaining categories:

Having successfully started her line of handbags while still in school, Clara Yoo of Parsons School of Design was issued the award in the category of Best Made Student Handbag. In conjunction with this award, Yoo is presented with the opportunity to work as an apprentice on the Henri Bendel accessory design team! 

The following category of Best Handmade Handbag required that the winning design be knitted, crocheted, or sewn by the designer himself. This award was given to Darren Wallace along with a new Singer sewing machine.
The winner of the Best Green Handbag was Helen Marcoschamer of Ecoist, having used recycled and sustainable materials for her design. 

The Most Socially Responsible Handbag award went to Bridget Reid of PFYH Alpaca: Peace For Your Heart. Having manufactured the alpaca fleece of this winning design in Peru, Reid has made an admirable example of a “socially responsible” designer by ensuring that a portion of the bags proceeds is returned to the country’s local education system. 

In the category of Audience Fan Favorite, Bag Borrow or Steal’s readers and consumers (Sex and the City and Jennifer Hudson ring a bell?) voted for their preferred design. The lucky recipient of this award was Suzanna Scarola of Bellabags.

Concluding the awards ceremony with the highly celebrated category of Best Handbag in Overall Style and Design, Jana Hanci (CEO of LaunchBags) handed off the award to a very pleased Lui Antinous. 

The Independent Handbag Award show was more like a red carpet affair honoring emerging designers for their endless efforts in the fashion industry. The presence of such established designers alongside the “new kids on the block” serves as an example of the camaraderie within the fashion world.  

www.handbagdesigner101.com
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Deploy Fashion Show: Spring/Summer 2008

Posted by fashionentrepreneurreport On Saturday, June 07, 2008 0 comments







Imagine being able to make your dress into pants, or your conservative dress into a sexier cut. Bernice Pan’s new line called “Deploy” from London was brought to New York at Tribeca’s NY Wine Co.
Bernice Pan wore one of her own sleek, black creations as a dress. However, Pan’s innovative ensemble included a secret snap which ingeniously transforms the dress into a pencil skirt if desired. It’s customized couture or as the talented Bernice calls it: “poor man’s couture.” These days, it’s expensive to buy every bit of fashionable attire that we desire. Fortunately, Bernice Pan came up with the most innovative way to link high fashion with economic reasonability. “Clothes are not versatile enough and should be variety and mobile.” said Bernice. 
So if you are re out one night for a business meeting and off to a special date, it’s all possible with Deploy’s new line. Pan will also debut her men’s line in the near future - so everyone should stay tuned for next amazing accomplishment.  All in all, you can go from conservative, to casual, to chic in just a snap!  




www.deployworkshop.com  
- Lex Kridel 
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