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Interview | Francesca Versace

Posted by fashionentrepreneurreport On Tuesday, December 30, 2008 0 comments



What is in a family name?  Well if you are a Versace there is quite a rich, colorful history not to mention lots of fabulous clothes.  It is always compelling to watch the offspring spawn by famous families.  Francesca Versace, my close friend and school mate, niece of the late great Gianni Versace and the formidable Donatella, daughter of the newly appointed member of the Italian Parliament and nucleus of the family business Santo and gorgeous Cristiana.  And in true Versace form the thing I most admire about Francesca is her ability to mix with the bourgeois, and aristocracy with such effortlessness.  
Upon completing her BA at Saint Martins with a triumphant degree collection Francesca is keeping busy with several different design projects and a  charity foundation close to her heart.   
So in the name of fashion I called one of my best friends to see what she is up to: 
Markus Ketty:  Ciao! Franci how are you?  Anything new and exciting you want to tell me? I know London is not the same without me.  It seems like just yesterday we were running around like mad working on our degree collections.   
Francesca Versace:  London could never be the same without you, hurry back! 
MK: What are you currently working on? 
FV:  Currently I am working quite a bit on my charity Milano Young which I founded with nine friends including Barbara Berlusconi the daughter of Silvio Berlusconi the former Italian Prime Minister 
MK: Fantastic tell me more about it 
FV: You can check the website at milanoyoung.org   We established the charity to raise money to help various causes, like the advancement of hospital facilities in various impoverished regions of Northern Italy.   We also helped raise funds for the children’s school of the blind. We are also helping make the dream of young Italians come true by the chance to study in universities from the money we raise through different events.  We are also organizing events in various universities with lectures given by the top faculty as well as Industry lectures with top companies and business leaders.  All of us involved feel so fortunate we have been given the opportunities we have it is only natural to help those less fortunate. Everybody deserves a chance for a brighter future.  
MK:  Sign me up!  I am quite moved.  How can I help?   
FV:  Well, I have designed a capsule clothing collection that is available in various stores in Italy and soon through the website. It is quite sporty and fun.  All the profit goes directly to the charity. 
MK: Brilliant!  Now tell me who and what else you are designing? 
FV:  I finished a capsule collection for The Singaporean based label “Alldressedup” called “Francesca V” a one of collection that is in stores now.” 
MK:  Where can fashionistas in America pick it up? 
FV:  Bergdorf’s in NYC, Saks fifth Avenue in Los Angeles and a some other boutiques.   If you check the website http://www.alldressedup.com/www.alldressedup.com.  I am also collaborating with Italian beer Icon Peroni on exciting interiors projects that is all very hush hush at the moment.  Last September in Tokyo I helped them to launch the Nastro Azzurro brand of beer in conjunction with my graduate collection and a few new looks.  It was an incredible experience to get to know Japaenese people, they are so imaginative and Tokyo is such an electric city.  The shopping is bar none!  
MK:  Wow! I hope you got me lots of gifts.  I heard a rumor through the grape vine you are working on menswear? 
FV:  I am in talks/consulting with Verri Uomo a historic Italian Menswear line to relaunch the brand.  
MK:  Remember how we would go around to all the different exhibitions in London and take massive amounts of notes, drawings etc for our sketchbooks. You would always get us in trouble by snapping photos. Do you still do that? 
FV:  As much as I can I go to all the current exhibitions and still sneak in a few photos away from security . 
MK: Do you still do mood boards? 
FV:  Yes, it is the starting point for all my design.  
MK:  Oh! And the flee markets and vintage shopping you would drag me to.  I was always thinking of the future and what is modern and slightly robotic and you were always looking at the past in a romantic sort of way. 
FV:  You know I find such treasures at the vintage markets in fact last time I went I purchased this ancient Turkish jacket and wore it to an event and Hamish Bowles of Vogue said it was an amazing piece. 
MK:  Do you ever reference your Uncle or in any way turn to him for guidance? 
FV:  He is a constant guidance for me as his blood runs through my veins.  However, I always try to develop something new in order to express myself as an individual. My Uncle was an incredible Designer and Artist as is my Aunt Donatella.  I will always have that Versace style but with my own twist.   
MK:  Last Question if you could have been born into any other famous fashion family which one would it be? 
FV:  Why Francesca Chanel of course 
MK:  Good Answer! Well I miss you and we must get together soon. Have your people call my people.

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Trend Report Spring 2009

Posted by fashionentrepreneurreport On Monday, December 29, 2008 0 comments



Spring 2009 Trends, Stella McCartney, Marc JacobsIn a season where editor’s found little to rave about there were a few new shapes, new colors and a couple of consistent themes that transferred from week to week in the key cities of New York, London, Milan and Paris. 
We know the dress is back, we know femininity reigns supreme with flower prints and sheer fabric choices but here are the trends Fashion Designers should be interested and inspired by come spring: 1)       Exaggerated Shoulders: Seen all-over but stood out at the Dolce and Gabbana show where a new shape and texture (soft pajama fabrics mixed with sleeves that actually stood on their own) were more than special. The armor influence stood out in this trend too, as did the one shoulder accent (Other Stand-outs: Lanvin, Costume National Anne Valerie Hash and Chapurin)
2)       Jumpsuits: Stella McCartney brought sexy back to the runway with the most relaxed yet least frumpy of the jumpsuit craze (Other Standouts: Sonia Rykiel & YSL)
3)       Bows Bows Bows: Large or small on straps or in the print they took over London especially, but it was Giambattista Valli’s beautiful rendition that had the entire tent drooling (Other Stand-outs: Nathan Jenden & Derercuny)
4)       Americana: Pre-economy the designers had this theme in their head.  Mark Jacobs’ version will have editors, bloggers and fans talking all season (Other Stand-outs: Bottega Veneta, Ralph Lauren, Hermes, D-Squared, Isabel Marant)
5)       Muted Greys: At least one piece in every collection, but Nina Ricci did it best because Theyskens paired it with yellows exaggerated lengths, cinched waists and exaggerated shoulders… show off! (Other Stand-outs: Rag and Bone, Antonio Marras, Doo Ri, Veronique Braquino)
6)       Metallic Shine: From sophisticated glimmer to all out rock and roll catching the light caught our eye.  Balmain made sequins young and hot again as did Ashish (Other Stand-outs: Kenzo, Balenciaga and 3.1 Philip Lim)
7)       Photographic Screen Prints:  Textile lovers will see intriguing literal versions of prints but distorted and re-preportioned. Martin Margiela’s sense of humor did it best (Other Stand-outs:  Monique Lhuillier & Verohique Branquinho)
8)       Futuristic Sexy Power Babe: This time it might be hats off to Karl Lagerfeld for the evolution of the dominatrix. (Other Stand-outs: Givenchy & Haider Ackermann)
9)       Fringe: For a modern approach instead of costume references applause must be given to Ann Demeulemeester. (Other Stand-outs: Alexander McQueen, & Jil Sander)
10)   Waist Detail: The single most evident shape shifter, it wasn’t just belts, but more protective obi-esque finishes at Louis Vuitton. (Other Stand-outs: Requiem, Moncler, Miu Miu, and Fendi)
Compiled by Lynn Furge and Markus Ketty
(Images: Left Column: Dolce & Gabbana, Giambattista Valli, Nina Ricci, Martin Margiela, Ann Demeulemeester, Right Column: Stella McCartney, Marc Jacobs, Balmain, Karl Lagerfeld, Louis Vuitton)

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Interview | Macy's: Fashion Incubator

Posted by fashionentrepreneurreport On Sunday, December 28, 2008 0 comments
The Fashion Incubator is a non-for profit organization that was put in place by Mayor Daley and the Chicago Department of cultural affairs. 
With the intent of elevating the fashion community the city went to its biggest retailer, Macy’s to house the space needed for the designers to work, and sell their garments.  Fashion Incubator winners have access to sewing machines, computers offices and conference rooms where they can meet with buyers and conduct business in a professional space (something that is craved but difficult to garner by young designers everywhere).  With the support of the city as well as a very well known roof over their heads, the creators and designers spoke to Nolcha about why this program is essential to keep style alive in the city. 
Nolcha:  How do you feel Macy’s has helped aid the cause of Chicago’s Fashion Incubator? 
Melissa Gamble, Director of Fashion Arts and Events for the Chicago Department of Cultural Affairs: Macy’s has been integral to the success of the Chicago Fashion Initiative.  Their continued support and development of the Chicago Designer Program is unparalleled.  No other major retailer has provided such a partnership to nurture new design talent in this way.  We look forward to seeing the top design talent of tomorrow emerging from the Chicago Fashion Incubator. 
N:  Why do you feel it is so important that a major retailer focus on not only a new designer, but someone who focuses on Eco Friendly clothing?
Kristin Hassan, designer, organiK Revolution:  Because we are the future.  With my emphasis on green, retailers are taking special attention because it's important to provide your customer with the absolute best.  The green revolution is not a trend, but instead a lifestyle.  Being a part of the Chicago Fashion Incubator at Macy's has been crucial in my growth as a designer and entrepreneur.  I was 22 when I started in the Incubator and had brand new business right out of college... to be accepted into this great circle not only validated me as a young designer, but has provided me with the tools to be successful.  It's given me a great platform to stand on and introduce myself and my company to the local design industry.  
N:  How did participating in the Fashion Incubator prepare you for not only a future in design but also business? 
Glenn Mallory, designer:  Even though Macy’s did not pick up my line due to price point the Incubator has been wonderful because I learned so much about the retail process (I come from a custom design background vs. retail) so I knew nothing about the retail side of the industry.  I learned a lot from the seminars they provided plus got maximum exposure to allow me to expand my clientele base. 
N:  What has being in a major National Retailer opened your eyes to as far as business? 
Agga B Raya, designer Agga Collection:  Macy's has always believed the customer comes first. This simple yet powerful philosophy is the mission statement I will follow as I launch my new Spring/Summer, as well as, Fall 2009 collections; Agga and Raya Silver.Careful attention has been paid to the variety of shapes, sizes and lifestyles of women in Chicago...and the world. We have all quickly realized fit, style and value are important in our current fashion economy. 
N:  Did the Fashion Incubator give you opportunities you would not have had if you were working in your own private space? 
Lidia Wachowska, designer Evil Kitty:  My goal for 2008 was to build a strong foundation for my company. I wanted to get Evil Kitty ready for world domination. The CFI helped me do that.  They provided a platform for me and Evil Kitty to create and launch a new and exciting Spring 2009 collection. I got a chance to restructure the company, so now I can produce larger quantities. I got acquainted with new patternmakers, manufacturers and suppliers. The CFI organized workshops that were very beneficial. Being around other designer was also exciting, beneficial and inspiring. I enjoy working in a creative environment. Some of the designers were a great source of information.  Having a workroom and an office downtown Chicago was very convenient. I was able to hire interns from various fashion colleges. I could organize events and schedule appointments with clients, all at Macy’s on State Street. 
N:  Has Macy’s seen any success or positive feedback from the designers? 
Kimberly Prodan, Executive Director of the Chicago Fashion Incubator: One of our designers, Yana German was selected to be part of Macy’s Chicago designer shop.  Her line has been selling very well and Macy’s even submitted a re-order of her best sellers. 
N:  What is next on the horizon for the Fashion Incubator? 
Melissa Gamble: The next phases of the incubator will include the development of a resource library for designers, mentorship program, build out the workshops to include more designers from the local industry, development of additional resources for the designers-in-residence including financial, industry and more. All six of the designers have exciting projects on the way for 2009 even after their residence at Macy’s has ended.  As a stylist, Agga B Raya knows “how” to wear clothing is as important designing it, therefore she is combining her efforts by launching Raya silver.  Glenn Mallory is working on a leather line.  OrganiK Revolution is going to have a web store starting January of 2009 filled with exclusive eco-friendly printed tees.  Kate Boggiano will also focus on on-line sales and the custom shirts her clients are consistently asking for.  Evil Kitty is looking to world domination with the fan club, a jewelry line and the Spring 2009 collection. Individual designer websites will have more detailed information:
To download an application for the Incubator please log on to:http://www.chicagolandec.org/content/news/news_detail.asp?NEW_ID=210 

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Interview | Luprocks.com

Posted by fashionentrepreneurreport On Thursday, December 25, 2008 0 comments

With backgrounds in set design (Jessica took home an Emmy), and Public Relations (Michelle specialized in fine jewelry and watches).  Jessica Cohen and Michelle Orman teamed up to place jewelry on the set of Sex and the City and founded Lup, parent company of the largely successful Luprocks.com. 
What is Luprocks.com?  Simple, it is a virtual showroom that connects designers to influential media.  Nolcha picked the brains of the two entrepreneurs to see how independent designers can become involved.

Nolcha:  What is the mission behind luprocks.com?  

Jessica Cohen & Michelle Orman:  We wanted to give designers—from established to up-and-coming—the opportunity to play on an even playing field regarding media placements.  By directly connecting these designers with media, we are allowing them the opportunity to forge and nurture relationships that will benefit their businesses, as well as helping them build a buzz about their brand and brand association with celebrities.

N:  What are the benefits of a virtual showroom?  
JC & MO:  By going digital, LupRocks.com offers any-time access to media on the hunt for product for their productions or the pages of their magazines.  Costume designers especially have to pull together entire wardrobes with very limited time and limited budgets, with this online resource they are able to browse at their leisure and the “Desperately Seeking” section allows them to post specific requests for their product call listings so that the designers can submit images for consideration.  The media we work with love the ease of use and the “do-it-yourself” aspect of the online format.

N:  How do you garner your talented designers?  
JC & MO:  We attend many trade shows, comb the pages of our favorite magazines and trade journals and shop in the far corners of the world to uncover the hottest designers.  By getting these designers on our radar, we’re able to inform them about opportunities on the site which often times results in them signing up for the site.

N:  You are starting to branch out from accessories to apparel, please tell me about that process?  
JC & MO:  We started specializing in the fine jewelry industry, and when we went online, expanding to accessories seemed a natural transition.  A year or so after our launch, we were able to comprehend the high level of success our designers were having and realized that our target media audience was also often on the hunt for apparel, children’s clothing, beauty and home design.  By branching into these other categories—everything with a heavy emphasis on “design”--we are able to become even a more “one-stop-shop” for media utilizing the site.

N:  In a competitive marketplace where sales in stores are dropping by at least 2% why do you feel the on-line retail business is still surviving?
JC & MO:  Online retail is still surviving mainly because of its ease of use.  Shoppers are able to compare and contrast prices, which assuages any guilt about spending money unnecessarily, and now that basically everything is available with the click of a button, people don’t have to travel to Brooklyn, for example, to get their hands on a one-of-a-kind piece of handmade jewelry, but can order this online from the comfort of their own homes.   

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Hot for Teacher: Norma Kamali's Educational Push

Posted by fashionentrepreneurreport On Monday, December 08, 2008 0 comments

Fashion Designer Norma Kamali has designed suits for $35.00 with professionals like public school teachers in mind.     

Norma’s involvement in the public schools for the last 18 years prompted her to look at the impact the teachers could make in the classroom by dressing up for the class.  The results were witnessed when she donated suits to the teachers at her NYC Alma Mater Gramercy Arts High School.   

The teachers look and felt amazing and the students gave it a thumbs up. Kamali partnered with Walmart to empower women on a budget.  She would like to let teachers across the country know she is not only personally involved in the design but also the quality of the collection and wants them to know she wears the suits herself. President Elect Obama set the tone in his very suited up style… and now the students of America should be able to see this in every classroom across the country. http://www.normakamalicollection.com
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Showroom New York Call to Designers

Posted by fashionentrepreneurreport On Thursday, December 04, 2008 0 comments
Showroom New York is holding an open call for contemporary RTW and accessory designers! 
 
Designers who produce their collections in New York City can attend the open call on January 14th – 15th , 2009 12pm – 6pm@202 W. 40th Street, 9th FloorNew York, NY  10018 

Please bring Fall ‘09 samples and pricing.   

Showroom New York is part of the Garment Industry Development Corporation (GIDC); a non profit established in 1984 by the City of New York to promote and sustain apparel manufacturing in New York City. GIDC offers technical assistance, education & training programs, job placement for garment workers and sourcing for emerging designers. Funded by a grant from the State of New York; Showroom New York is part of this exciting mission to maintain New York’s position as the Fashion Capital of the world!

For more information please log onto www.showroomnewyork.org
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Introducing Fashion Designer: Shane and Shawn

Posted by fashionentrepreneurreport On Tuesday, December 02, 2008 0 comments






Intelligence and Innovation are two words often used lightly in fashion, but not in the case of Shane and Shawn Ward.  Shane graduated with a degree in Industrial Design and has worked for such giants as Adidas.  Shawn chose Mechanical Engineering and conquered both Chrysler and the NASDAQ. Together they make up SW2DESIGN. With the opening of their eponymous store in 2008 in the hot Nolita area of New York City, Métier could not think of a better duo to speak to about being an entrepreneur in today’s fashion marketplace.

Lynn Furge:  What does it mean to you to be entrepreneurs?

Shane: It means everything, our grandfathers were both entrepreneurs.  It is in our blood.  We have both worked for large corporations and it kept eating at us to start something on our own. At the end of the day it is all about controlling our own destiny… being able to wake up and know that we love what we are doing.  Being an entrepreneur means that the harder you work the more benefit you gain.

LF:  Why is technology so important in footwear?

Shane: It is important with our brand and our philosophy. From our standpoint technology is part of our product from beginning to end. We go for more technology and function and then work into creative design.  The longevity of a client remains if the product feels good.  We have nuances implemented in each shoe.  One is the luxury liner which is a quilted inlay sole that consists of two layers of foam and a pig leather layer all sewn together to mirror the feel of a mattress.  On the men’s side we have an EVA foam insert at the heel that absorbs shock when the foot hits the pavement like most running shoes.  Then both men’s and women’s have the Comfort/Traction sole that is basically rubber pods to support grip and absorb shock as well.

LF:  How do you bridge the line between function and trend?

Shane:  The function part is imbedded in the DNA of our shoes so we don’t have to re-think that every season.  That allows us to have more time to think about creative inspiration and design.  If you know your core product is going to have the “luxury liner” and the proper arch support, then you have more time to play with visuals. We go to Pantone colour presentations.  We travel the globe seeing what’s hot.

Shawn:  You will do a brand injustice if you sacrifice the fit and function.  Traditionally comfort and function are not “sexy” terms when it comes to fashion which is why other designers just like to speak about color and texture and how high the heel is.  Everyone wants to hear about the beauty of the shoe, but we can do both.

LF:  Your “luxury liner” is said to be patent pending… why is it important to stand by and lead the pack as far as documented technology goes, for a young business owner?

Shawn:  The thing about making sure we protect our intellectual property is that we see ourselves as the next great lifestyle brand.  Bigger companies can take it or give it to the consumer cheaper so we need to protect what they stand for.  It is not easy.  It takes a long time.  Once you get the process started however, it is documented and therefore you are protected.  I would advise anyone if fashion with an original idea to do the same.

LF:  What is the first thing you consider when designing a for a woman’s foot?

Shane:  After the comfort part, which we have focused on since day one, one of the biggest inspirations I conjure up is my figure drawing classes from art school.  I actually design shoes from the point of view of a woman with nothing on.  I think about how the design will shape the leg.  How the heel will lift the butt, how the entire shoe will change her posture.  If the shoe looks good on a naked body then it will also look good clothed.  Other inspirations can be anything from something I hear, to furniture, or a car… there is no limit.

LF:  Women love their shoes… what has growing up in a big family, raised by an incredible woman taught you about what women want?

Shawn:  My mother and both of our older sisters are very strong headed women.  They have shown us independence, empowerment and that women are no second-fiddle to any men.  Chris Rock once said “compliment your woman” and that is so true.  A compliment goes a long way, and I promise if you wear our shoes, you will receive compliments.

LF:  In 5 words, please describe the vision of Shane and Shawn.
Shane and Shawn: Jetset, Boardroom Rockstar, Sexy, and Comfortable.

LF:  How has opening your own boutique changed the way you look at the retail business?

Shane and Shawn:  It has changed everything. We don’t even look at weather the same way anymore.  It makes us think different when we go into other retail shops.  The economy used to not phase us.  Consumer confidence, the unemployment rate, these are all words now used regularly in our vocabulary.  From a product standpoint… it is the ideal focus group.  We get to hear first hand how the shoes are fitting.  It helps us better understand our collection in general.  It also allows us to take risks and throw something new on our shelves just to test them out.

LF:  Shawn what did you learn from working as a day trader in the NASDAQ in relation to business growth?

Shawn: It made me better able to handle pressure.  It taught me never to panic.  Being the president of a company, I’m a firefighter putting out fires all day everyday.  I can think on my toes.

LF:  You have a very rock and roll edge.  If one song could encompass your Fall 2008 collection what would it be and why?

Shane & Shawn: Ziggy Stardust by David Bowie.  Mainly because it is so melodic but the words give it an edge. Our inspiration for Fall Winter 2008 is Hamptons Rebel, where we took classic looks and made them edgy.


shane&shawn.com
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