Menswear offers predictable elements of tailoring and style with editors often warring opinions of “too safe” or “unwearable”, but this season provided an interesting twist in trend that gives the a variety of men, from the fashion-starved to the conservative everyman something to shake up his closet.Intense brights, layerable sheer basics and interesting twists on the classic military look all reigned supreme. Here are the unique nuances that make up Mens Spring/Summer 2010.
Sleeveless: Versace by Alexandre Plokhov centered his entire collection along the idea of lightness and with that came wispy tanks that added a bit of athleticism to the linen heavy beachy show. Alessandro Sartori gave us a dandy –inspired hunk at Z Zegna with top hats and tanks to prove accompany the skinny pants. Maison Martin Margiela offered up a floral array in ways of embroidery and laser cut outs which boosted the white collection towards city chic, yet Prada with a shirtless, tough guy, tailored, sexy bare bones take on suiting wins our vote in the reason to go sleeveless. 
Layerable Sheer Basics: Rick Owens went “American Thug” for his homage to the tough guy by way of deconstructed denim and baggy silhouettes paired with sheer cut away t-shirts that flapped as the models trudged down the runway. Raf Simon’s Jil Sander collection had beauty in the details of his layered v-necks with icy blue over-coats. Calvin Klein Collection took on an athleticism that makes the powerhouse men’s line an easy addition to a staple wardrobe where Italo Zucchelli wove mesh knits, transparent parkas and sheer suit sleeves into the show. Zucchelli talked more about the technological aspect of fabric vs. the “lines” or “shapes” those textiles created. The Individualist a new collection by Luise and Franck added a simple sheer long sleeve t-shirt with more structured modern separates (we loved the non-jacket tuxedo jacket). And conclusively, summing up the Sheer Basic trend was newcomer Tim Hamilton, who for his first Parisian catwalk gave the audience, a sheer white parka that will allow even the most fashionably challenged man to implement other trends like brights into his wardrobe by just pulling one simple well-tailored piece over his head.
Monochrome Brights: Color rocked the runways for Spring Summer 2010, kicking out the usual grays and browns for which modern menswear has become famous. Paul Smith shocked the audience mid-way with head to toe persimmon. Bottega Venetta’s Tomas Maier took a more realistic approach and sprinkled sophisticated rushes of color like his “fever red” throughout his impeccable tailoring and exotic surf-type patterns. Massimiliano Giornetti unveiled reds as well at Salvatore Ferragamo, but paired with fedoras the union looked just right. When the color came out at Calvin Klein, it came out strong with eye-opening electric blue fit for a Dick Tracy comic. Alber Elbaz kept his color lean and casual with dusty day suits in green, orange, red and purple for his Lanvin mens line. But something happened at Louis Vuitton where Paul Helbers unveiling bits of street sign yellow in polos, leggings, blazers and shoes was just build up to a short suit (another huge trend) which saturated the model head to toe in the same color. This introduced the color-crazed theme but continued like a good sonata by implementing the same yellow here and there which is most likely how a real man will wear the bright trend anyway.
Leggings: Yes, we said it leggings, for men, but before you call Lindsey Lohan or the fashion police, hear us out. It is all about layering and the new “active man.” Louis Vuitton with a bike messenger theme, placed them under shorts but cuffed them and gave them a little slouch as if a shortened “long-john” was now the way to comfort. Cheap Monday, turned out modern, young grunge including tears and acid washes. Kris Van Asscheshowcased leggings, but the rest of his silhouettes were so long that we could hardly see them peaking out of the droopy Bermudas. Ricardo Tisci at Givenchy did leggings first two years ago, so we give him accolades again for introducing some strong black and white elements and print on print fantasy that make the mosh-pit costume a little more glamorous. But since that is old news for the usually innovative designer, Nolcha would like to commend Mihara Yasuhiro instead, who produced the most wearable version of the leggings trend, making it way more about a traveling boy than the disheveled street-walker.
Parkas: By traditional definition a parka is a coat or jacket with a hood traditionally lined for cold weather, however sans lining for spring, these protective, water-proof, jackets were seen in all shapes and forms on runway after runway. The Burberry man needs a parka because it’s rainy in London and Christopher Bailey always answering to his customer gave his clients a beautiful slender pocket-heavy piece that broke up the trench coat-laden collection. CP Company followed suit with pops of blue from Wallace Faulds. Moncler Gamme Bleu evoked the quintessential outdoor athleticism that real men who sail and golf and explore no matter the weather can appreciate. Thom Browne’s humorous take on a dapper man at sport (signal flags on slickers, Speedo-parka-polo combination…) was just that, so we obviously took note, look after yacht club look. But if we are speaking about pieces that echo the trend yet provide the wearer with realistic looks to fill their wardrobe, Dries Van Noten has to be commended. A designer known for his prints and pairings and global aesthetic placed a classic plaid parka with a grey pant, tie belt and printed polo. The styling was so spot on that it left the audience knowing that this very parka was the only option, which in turn will make customers feel the same.
Moroccan Military: Done without a bit of literal reference, but echoing the head-wrapped, swaddled looks of other larger labels, Odeur wrapped and cloaked their models and left them even a bit sandblasted. Petter Hollström and Gorjan Lauseger created a sort of nomad who almost echoed the idea of a modern soldier’s traipse back home. Neil Barrett’s structured double-breasted coats with Jodhpur type pants could have worked in Casablanca or current day. Bottega Veneta’s khaki numbers were less structured but had all the elements of African colors with classic Army inspired silhouettes. John Galliano, however, known for putting on a show, grouped together a production ripe with spray-tanned, kohl-rimmed warriors conquering new terrains. Looking past the head wraps and gauze was a collection full of beautifully cut blazers, realistic yet interesting trench coats and sharp vests. And who wouldn’t want to wear those comfy cargos? Fashion’s Pirate is taking a divide and conquer approach mixing in floral patterns therefore giving men a mix of innovation and insouciance.
Award-winning fashion designer Richard Dayhoff’s men’s premium performance underwear launches at legendary Takashimaya New York, on November 17, 2009. The store will carry the designer’s signature contour boxer briefs.Known for his sculptural approach to design and attention to detail, Dayhoff continues to introduce intriguing collections that command attention. Fusing fashion with function, the masculine boxer briefs are setting a new trend in high tech sporting fabric used for undergarments.
“My collection appeals to the man who understands that dressing begins with the layer closest to his body. The man wearing my underwear appreciates the exceptional fit of the athletic cut as well as the ability to keep its shape due to the extraordinary memory of the fabric,” says Dayhoff.
Dayhoff’s boxer brief incorporates an innovative perspiration control system with capillary action. Its multilayer structure rapidly transports perspiration to the fabric’s outer surface. Once there, it is dispersed throughout the fabric and quickly evaporates. The inner layer remains dry; therefore the fabric always feels lightweight and fresh. It is unmistakably the ultimate in quality, comfort and craftsmanship.
While we avidly await www.richarddayhoff.com to go live, you can see more details on: http://www.facebook.com/richarddayhoff
Lately I have been teaching a uniquely green focused FastTrac™ Tech Venture program run by ITAC – New York City’s Industrial and Technology Assistance Corporation.
Our class is full of small start-up and early-stage businesses with state-of-the-art green technology business concepts. Super cool ideas ranging from solar panel manufacturers to internet-based companies that measure energy usage of your home and commercial buildings.
This week we were going over how to really test their business concept, and how close they are to being a “perfect” business.
Based on the market research they have been doing, I asked them to rate their businesses based on the following five components:
- Product / Service Feasibility – Does the product or service serve a purpose? Is their a need for it? What makes it better, different or unique from competitors’ products or services?
- Market Feasibility – Is there a demand for the product/service? From whom? What are they currently purchasing instead? Will you be able to capture some of the market share out there? How much of it?
- Financial Feasibility – What is your cost structure? How much can you sell your product / service for? How profitable will it be? How scalable is it? How quickly can you ramp up production of your product / service to meet demand? How much capital do you need to make it happen? Do you have this capital or do you need to raise it? From where would you raise it?
- Technology Feasibility – How “current” is your technology? Will your potential customers “get it” and understand its value? How difficult is it for your competition to enter your market? How much of a lead time will you have over the competition? How will you stay ahead of the curve on your technology as it changes?
- Environmental Feasibility – How much energy does your product / service consume, including travel, office equipment, etc.? How much carbon is your business emitting? Water pollution? How about chemicals, heavy metals, and toxicity in production and distribution of your product / service? Natural resources consumed, such as paper, metals, water, etc.? Design: durability, reusability, and reused/recycled materials? Packaging and waste / recyclability of the materials? How does your supply-chain taking care of the same issues and their environmental impact?
This turned into an hour-long discussion and debate on how to measure these various components and their importance in business.
Especially the Environmental Feasibility component.
The class wondered what was so important about measuring these issues and if all of them applied to each of them. The answer is by making it important for their business turns into a very serious benefit over their competition, as long as it is well researched and done authentically. And that most of the components apply to most businesses. More than the average entrepreneur realizes!
I encouraged them to focus on the amount of savings and/or increased revenue a company can receive by really ramping up their environmental feasibility.
It can effectively put them far ahead of the competition.
Just as important as implementing the changes of these five components of a perfect business is knowing how to leverage them once they are put in place. That is this week’s action steps for them to do and I’m really looking forward to seeing the results they come up with next week.
Action Steps for the Week
Rate your business from 1 – 10 on the following five components:
- Product / Service
- Market
- Financial
- Technology
- Environmental
1 = poor – 10 = excellent. Add them up and compare to a “perfect” business score of “50”.
Very few businesses ever score a “50”, but use it as a benchmark to strive for. And look at your “lower” scores and know this is a place to start ASAP.
And for those lower scoring components of your business determine how to ramp them up. Do you need to do some market research to determine what you need to do? Do you need to determine how to leverage that part of your business once it is ramped up.
For example, if you got a weak score on technology, how do you get up to speed? What has to happen? How much will it cost? How can you market it as a leg up on your competition? And then how can you stay ahead of the competition going forward? Lastly, where do you find this information out?
This can take some work and research, and in the end you and your business will benefit dramatically because of it.
- Stefan Doering is the creator of BEST Coaches’ groundbreaking 90-day “UnReasonable” program which brings to the table his almost 30 years of hard-earned business savvy and 4-plus decades of pure heart.
Celebrating their first year, the Center for Pattern Design will host a Pattern Design Conference to bring together master pattern makers who will share their insights, their designs and the pattern techniques that make them a critical part of the fashion industry.Keynote speaker will be Gail Gondek, pattern designer for Chado Ralph Rucci, Geoffrey Beene, Ralph Lauren, Marc Jacobs, and Peter Som. Her talk, Concept to Catwalk, will shed light on the often mysterious pattern design process that produces a fashion masterpiece at the highest levels. Her work has been shown at the Paris Couture and Prete-a-Porter shows and regularly at New York's Fashion Week for the past 20 years. Many of her pieces have also been displayed at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the Museum of Modern Art, the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, the Fashion Museum at Kent State University, and the Museum of Contemporary Art, Los Angeles (MOCA).
In addition to Ms. Gondek, other speakers include Julian Roberts, one of the most innovative designers in the UK and the inventor of Subtraction Cutting. He has shown 13 collections at London’s Fashion Week in addition to being a film maker for SuperSuper Magazine and a consultant to the BBC. Currently, he develops his own
collections, designing both the garment and the engineered surface designs. His film/web/graphics company, JULIANAND, is a leader in defining the visual identity of this century. Mr. Roberts will also be giving a rare Master Class in Subtraction Cutting at the Art Institute of California - San Francisco on October 2. A second Master Class will be offered by Suzy Furrer, owner of Apparel Arts in San Francisco, on October 4. It will feature her newly published benchmark text, Building Patterns, The Architecture of Women’s Clothes, in which she reveals the exact techniques of the French moulage system, used by couturiers, for drafting patterns that fit perfectly.
The program also includes Josh Jakus, Berkeley, CA architect, industrial designer and creator of the very unique UM bag, based upon the 1920’s Goode homolosine projection of the world map; Saundra Altman, owner of Past Patterns, the most accurate and extensively researched resource for historical patterns in the US; Isabelle Lott, creator of PWStudio software which enables an entrepreneur to create any pattern design with just a laptop; and Kathleen Poole, of Poole Fashion Group, speaking on Balancing Patterns, a little-known technique for creating the most commercially successful production patterns. Also, the Textile Clothing Technology Corp. (TC2), the fashion industry’s premier think tank based in Cary, North Carolina, will debut it’s new software, My ImageTwin, offering attendees a free digitally printed avatar of their bodies to assist in designing their personal clothing patterns. Plus, there will be a variety of pattern-related books, patterns and materials available for purchase and the inaugural issue of the Pattern Design Journal will be free to attendees.
The Center for Pattern Design is a membership organization which sponsors events with notable pattern and fashion designers, offers members an annual journal, a bi-monthly newsletter and special offers on courses and products. Those who join the Center will qualify for member prices for conference registration.
In addition to Ms. Gondek, other speakers include Julian Roberts, one of the most innovative designers in the UK and the inventor of Subtraction Cutting. He has shown 13 collections at London’s Fashion Week in addition to being a film maker for SuperSuper Magazine and a consultant to the BBC. Currently, he develops his own
collections, designing both the garment and the engineered surface designs. His film/web/graphics company, JULIANAND, is a leader in defining the visual identity of this century. Mr. Roberts will also be giving a rare Master Class in Subtraction Cutting at the Art Institute of California - San Francisco on October 2. A second Master Class will be offered by Suzy Furrer, owner of Apparel Arts in San Francisco, on October 4. It will feature her newly published benchmark text, Building Patterns, The Architecture of Women’s Clothes, in which she reveals the exact techniques of the French moulage system, used by couturiers, for drafting patterns that fit perfectly.
The program also includes Josh Jakus, Berkeley, CA architect, industrial designer and creator of the very unique UM bag, based upon the 1920’s Goode homolosine projection of the world map; Saundra Altman, owner of Past Patterns, the most accurate and extensively researched resource for historical patterns in the US; Isabelle Lott, creator of PWStudio software which enables an entrepreneur to create any pattern design with just a laptop; and Kathleen Poole, of Poole Fashion Group, speaking on Balancing Patterns, a little-known technique for creating the most commercially successful production patterns. Also, the Textile Clothing Technology Corp. (TC2), the fashion industry’s premier think tank based in Cary, North Carolina, will debut it’s new software, My ImageTwin, offering attendees a free digitally printed avatar of their bodies to assist in designing their personal clothing patterns. Plus, there will be a variety of pattern-related books, patterns and materials available for purchase and the inaugural issue of the Pattern Design Journal will be free to attendees.
The Center for Pattern Design is a membership organization which sponsors events with notable pattern and fashion designers, offers members an annual journal, a bi-monthly newsletter and special offers on courses and products. Those who join the Center will qualify for member prices for conference registration.
Contact information and registration for the conference, the opening reception on Oct. 2 and the Master Classes can accessed online at: www.centerforpatterndesign.org.
The Art Institutes International Minnesota Announces the 2010 Passion for Fashion Competition
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The Art Institutes Passion for Fashion Competition 2010 provides high school students an exciting glimpse of the highly competitive fashion industry by offering students interested in Fashion Design or Fashion Marketing, Merchandising or Retail Management an opportunity to win a full-tuition scholarship to study fashion at one of The Art Institutes schools, including The Art Institutes International Minnesota. Eligible students can enter the Fashion Marketing & Merchandising & Retail Management category at The Art Institutes International Minnesota.Open to high school seniors across North America, The Art Institutes Passion for Fashion Competition was created to encourage and reward young fashion design and fashion marketing, merchandising and retail management talent at the high school level.
Since it began five years ago, interest in the competition has taken off, says John Schulz, Fashion & Retail Management Academic Director, The Art Institutes International Minnesota. “We saw a record number of applicants enter last year’s competition. There are so many wonderful fashion courses in high school today, and many students see a career in this industry within their reach.”
The competition consists of two categories: 1) Fashion Design and 2) Fashion Marketing & Merchandising and Retail Management. The grand prize winner in each category earns a full-tuition scholarship to an Art Institutes school to study in a fashion program. Each grand prize winner, in partnership with Seventeen Magazine, also receives a trip to New York City to attend a Fashion Week show, attends a “meet and greet” at Seventeen Magazine’s offices, lunches with a Seventeen Magazine Style Pro and receives a $500 shopping spree.
In this year’s Passion for Fashion Competition, students will be asked to create an original Fashion Marketing, Merchandising or Retail Management plan for the Fashion & Retail Management category.
To be eligible, students must be a senior in high school, set to graduate in 2010, complete an Entry & Release Form, have a minimum cumulative G.P.A. of at least 2.0, write a short essay describing their interest in fashion and submit a finished, originally designed evening wear garment and process book, for the Fashion Design category or a create a product or plan for the Fashion Marketing & Merchandising and Retail Management category.
Deadline for entries into The Art Institutes Passion for Fashion Competition is November 20, 2009. For more information on how to enter The Art Institutes Passion for Fashion Competition and for official rules, visithttp://www.artinstitutes.edu/pr.aspx?ID=p4f1000 or contact an Admissions Representative at aimadm@aii.edu or call 612-332-3361 or 800-777-3643.
The Art Institutes International Minnesota is one of The Art Institutes , a system of over 40 education institutions located throughout North America, providing an important source of design, media arts, fashion and culinary arts professionals.
Since it began five years ago, interest in the competition has taken off, says John Schulz, Fashion & Retail Management Academic Director, The Art Institutes International Minnesota. “We saw a record number of applicants enter last year’s competition. There are so many wonderful fashion courses in high school today, and many students see a career in this industry within their reach.”
The competition consists of two categories: 1) Fashion Design and 2) Fashion Marketing & Merchandising and Retail Management. The grand prize winner in each category earns a full-tuition scholarship to an Art Institutes school to study in a fashion program. Each grand prize winner, in partnership with Seventeen Magazine, also receives a trip to New York City to attend a Fashion Week show, attends a “meet and greet” at Seventeen Magazine’s offices, lunches with a Seventeen Magazine Style Pro and receives a $500 shopping spree.
In this year’s Passion for Fashion Competition, students will be asked to create an original Fashion Marketing, Merchandising or Retail Management plan for the Fashion & Retail Management category.
To be eligible, students must be a senior in high school, set to graduate in 2010, complete an Entry & Release Form, have a minimum cumulative G.P.A. of at least 2.0, write a short essay describing their interest in fashion and submit a finished, originally designed evening wear garment and process book, for the Fashion Design category or a create a product or plan for the Fashion Marketing & Merchandising and Retail Management category.
Deadline for entries into The Art Institutes Passion for Fashion Competition is November 20, 2009. For more information on how to enter The Art Institutes Passion for Fashion Competition and for official rules, visithttp://www.artinstitutes.edu/pr.aspx?ID=p4f1000 or contact an Admissions Representative at aimadm@aii.edu or call 612-332-3361 or 800-777-3643.
The Art Institutes International Minnesota is one of The Art Institutes , a system of over 40 education institutions located throughout North America, providing an important source of design, media arts, fashion and culinary arts professionals.
