Menswear offers predictable elements of tailoring and style with editors often warring opinions of “too safe” or “unwearable”, but this season provided an interesting twist in trend that gives the a variety of men, from the fashion-starved to the conservative everyman something to shake up his closet.Intense brights, layerable sheer basics and interesting twists on the classic military look all reigned supreme. Here are the unique nuances that make up Mens Spring/Summer 2010.
Sleeveless: Versace by Alexandre Plokhov centered his entire collection along the idea of lightness and with that came wispy tanks that added a bit of athleticism to the linen heavy beachy show. Alessandro Sartori gave us a dandy –inspired hunk at Z Zegna with top hats and tanks to prove accompany the skinny pants. Maison Martin Margiela offered up a floral array in ways of embroidery and laser cut outs which boosted the white collection towards city chic, yet Prada with a shirtless, tough guy, tailored, sexy bare bones take on suiting wins our vote in the reason to go sleeveless. 
Layerable Sheer Basics: Rick Owens went “American Thug” for his homage to the tough guy by way of deconstructed denim and baggy silhouettes paired with sheer cut away t-shirts that flapped as the models trudged down the runway. Raf Simon’s Jil Sander collection had beauty in the details of his layered v-necks with icy blue over-coats. Calvin Klein Collection took on an athleticism that makes the powerhouse men’s line an easy addition to a staple wardrobe where Italo Zucchelli wove mesh knits, transparent parkas and sheer suit sleeves into the show. Zucchelli talked more about the technological aspect of fabric vs. the “lines” or “shapes” those textiles created. The Individualist a new collection by Luise and Franck added a simple sheer long sleeve t-shirt with more structured modern separates (we loved the non-jacket tuxedo jacket). And conclusively, summing up the Sheer Basic trend was newcomer Tim Hamilton, who for his first Parisian catwalk gave the audience, a sheer white parka that will allow even the most fashionably challenged man to implement other trends like brights into his wardrobe by just pulling one simple well-tailored piece over his head.
Monochrome Brights: Color rocked the runways for Spring Summer 2010, kicking out the usual grays and browns for which modern menswear has become famous. Paul Smith shocked the audience mid-way with head to toe persimmon. Bottega Venetta’s Tomas Maier took a more realistic approach and sprinkled sophisticated rushes of color like his “fever red” throughout his impeccable tailoring and exotic surf-type patterns. Massimiliano Giornetti unveiled reds as well at Salvatore Ferragamo, but paired with fedoras the union looked just right. When the color came out at Calvin Klein, it came out strong with eye-opening electric blue fit for a Dick Tracy comic. Alber Elbaz kept his color lean and casual with dusty day suits in green, orange, red and purple for his Lanvin mens line. But something happened at Louis Vuitton where Paul Helbers unveiling bits of street sign yellow in polos, leggings, blazers and shoes was just build up to a short suit (another huge trend) which saturated the model head to toe in the same color. This introduced the color-crazed theme but continued like a good sonata by implementing the same yellow here and there which is most likely how a real man will wear the bright trend anyway.
Leggings: Yes, we said it leggings, for men, but before you call Lindsey Lohan or the fashion police, hear us out. It is all about layering and the new “active man.” Louis Vuitton with a bike messenger theme, placed them under shorts but cuffed them and gave them a little slouch as if a shortened “long-john” was now the way to comfort. Cheap Monday, turned out modern, young grunge including tears and acid washes. Kris Van Asscheshowcased leggings, but the rest of his silhouettes were so long that we could hardly see them peaking out of the droopy Bermudas. Ricardo Tisci at Givenchy did leggings first two years ago, so we give him accolades again for introducing some strong black and white elements and print on print fantasy that make the mosh-pit costume a little more glamorous. But since that is old news for the usually innovative designer, Nolcha would like to commend Mihara Yasuhiro instead, who produced the most wearable version of the leggings trend, making it way more about a traveling boy than the disheveled street-walker.
Parkas: By traditional definition a parka is a coat or jacket with a hood traditionally lined for cold weather, however sans lining for spring, these protective, water-proof, jackets were seen in all shapes and forms on runway after runway. The Burberry man needs a parka because it’s rainy in London and Christopher Bailey always answering to his customer gave his clients a beautiful slender pocket-heavy piece that broke up the trench coat-laden collection. CP Company followed suit with pops of blue from Wallace Faulds. Moncler Gamme Bleu evoked the quintessential outdoor athleticism that real men who sail and golf and explore no matter the weather can appreciate. Thom Browne’s humorous take on a dapper man at sport (signal flags on slickers, Speedo-parka-polo combination…) was just that, so we obviously took note, look after yacht club look. But if we are speaking about pieces that echo the trend yet provide the wearer with realistic looks to fill their wardrobe, Dries Van Noten has to be commended. A designer known for his prints and pairings and global aesthetic placed a classic plaid parka with a grey pant, tie belt and printed polo. The styling was so spot on that it left the audience knowing that this very parka was the only option, which in turn will make customers feel the same.
Moroccan Military: Done without a bit of literal reference, but echoing the head-wrapped, swaddled looks of other larger labels, Odeur wrapped and cloaked their models and left them even a bit sandblasted. Petter Hollström and Gorjan Lauseger created a sort of nomad who almost echoed the idea of a modern soldier’s traipse back home. Neil Barrett’s structured double-breasted coats with Jodhpur type pants could have worked in Casablanca or current day. Bottega Veneta’s khaki numbers were less structured but had all the elements of African colors with classic Army inspired silhouettes. John Galliano, however, known for putting on a show, grouped together a production ripe with spray-tanned, kohl-rimmed warriors conquering new terrains. Looking past the head wraps and gauze was a collection full of beautifully cut blazers, realistic yet interesting trench coats and sharp vests. And who wouldn’t want to wear those comfy cargos? Fashion’s Pirate is taking a divide and conquer approach mixing in floral patterns therefore giving men a mix of innovation and insouciance.
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