Lamé, Lurex and undoubtedly lavish, which ever way you cut it the metallics were molten this spring. Placed intricately into bodices, dripping off of shoulders and poured onto bodies like trophies, tones of gold, silver, copper and bronze all had a presence. This was not a nod to Disco and it certainly wasn’t a regal affair. If a designer chose to use a full metallic it was monochromatic and fabric based, instead of coming in the form of sequins, beading or bangles. Barbara Bui, Giles, Haider Ackerman, Olanek, Richard Nicoll and Rick Owens all chose head to toe varieties on the theme. But it was the piecemeal metallics that pulled more interest. Balmain draped Grecian layers where the metallics actually laid underneath the silk. Frank Tell built sculptured mini dresses with flat metallic skirts that almost looked brushed. Just Cavalli took that 40’s siren theme that we saw again and again on the runway and gave his audience flirty little Ginger Rogers type dresses with metallic mid-sections. Les Copains’ cowl-neck blouse was glitzy but paired with the sheer black skirt, the overall look was more deconstructed fancy rather than in your face fancy. Matthew Williamsonplayed with texture and color and the aluminum ruffled cardigan and copper short shorts was divine. Maurizio Pecoraro’s 40’s themed screen siren look even came with an accompanying bra. Pucci’s Peter Dundas stepped away from the classic print, but kept true to his casual warm-wintering client pairing a metallic gold blazer with a great tee and short combo. Sportmax flipped that same trend pairing cotton jackets with metallic fluid bottoms. Missoni spliced it’s trademark knits with bandage wrapped bust lines and hems in pure silver metal. Kenzo unveiled safari worthy suiting that looked like pure bronze was poured over the shoulders, but paired with the nubby wools and plaids the combination was the perfect display of balancing texture. When it comes to metallic one thinks glamour and Versace, the Queen of Glam produced some red-carpet worthy gowns that had metallic pieced bodices which were sculptural, pretty, fresh, young and right on target for what women want for evening.-Lynn Furge
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