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Interview | So You Can Think You Can Dance's Soyon An

Posted by fashionentrepreneurreport On Monday, August 17, 2009

Currently a notable costume designer for Fox’s hit TV shows AMERICAN IDOL and SO YOU THINK YOU CAN DANCESoyon An has been adding a fashionable edge to the stage week in and week out.
Be it in music, TV and film, from past experience with names like Kate Bosworth, Mariah Carey, Avril Lavigne andPink, Soyon has paved the way for great success.

Since beginning her work with 
19 Entertainment, Soyon has assisted for season two and designed for season four of “So You Think You Can Dance,” designed season one of “Superstars of Dance,” designed for a feature film called “Shoot the Hero,” and was recently a head costume designer on “American Idol’s” past season eight. She’s also designed three tours (seasons 2,3, 4 with 5 to come) for “So You Think You Can Dance” including a tour in Canada and the tour for season six of American Idol with Jordin Sparks.

She is currently designing for “So You Think You Can Dance” season five this summer while supporting the current American Idol tour (season eight with Kris Allen and Adam Lambert).  Nolcha's
Creative Director Lynn Furge caught up with Soyon to find out what it really takes deal with not only creative design, but movement and a hectic television season.
Lynn Furge:  You deal with athletes in a sense... How do you allow for movement?
Soyon An:  The last thing I want is their movement to be restricted and for there to be any tears. So, the fabrics I use all have to be stretchy and strong. Especially if they are bottoms. If they the look requires a material that isn't dance-friendly, I'll customize it to make it work for the movement.
LF:  When the dancers do their solo dance they seem to have a much more casual broken down work out type of attire... Do you design those costumes as well and if so what is the thought behind them?
SA:  I don't design the costumes for their solo dances. I allow the dancers to choose what they want to wear so that America can vote for who they are as an individual. I do help them style their look though. Every week, they have to get their solo outfits approved by me.
LF:  You have so many different genres to cover. Hip-hop, Ballet, Broadway. How do you prepare and research each style? Which is your favorite?
SA:  I prep and research via internet, fashion books, and all sorts of magazines. I also have creative meetings with the choreographers. I don't have a favorite style, but I think my favorite situation is when the choreographer and I have to conceptualize a lot and my creative wheel gets to spin full speed.
LF:  How many people are on your design team and how long do you have to create the costumes?
SA:  I have 2 seamstresses and 2 Costumers. So we are a total of 5. We have 3 days to come up with and make the couple's outfits and 24 hours to come up with and make the group routine outfits. We use every second that we have so on some show days we are still sewing the dancers into their wardrobe.
LF:  You really need to allow the dancers to embody a character because they cannot speak so the audience needs to understand both the movement and the visual costume. Please explain how you you prepare for all of that?
SA:  It all ties in together through the choreographer. The choreographer knows the story/concept that they are trying to create. They speak with me about the story/concept and the music. Together we come up with wardrobe ideas and colors. I draw them a sketch and show some fabric samples. Since we are so short on time, there can't be any second guesses. I love the movement of fabric and how, visually, we can communicate a feeling so it is very important for me to have these meetings with the choreographers so that we are all on the same page. From there we create each piece.
LF:  How did you begin as a costume designer? Where did you start? Give me a career timeline...
SA:  I first started off as a fashion designer. I designed for a couple of men's lines and at Forever 21. I also assisted stylists and other costume designers and ended up designing the So You Think You Can Dance and American Idol's tours. Now I do their shows as well side projects such as consulting for clothing lines, photo shoots, look books, and award shows.
LF:  What do you think people who want to get into the fashion industry but more in terms of costume design should know?
SA:  People who are working their way into becoming a costume designer aren't necessarily required to sew or know patterns, but I recommend the individual to be knowledgeable of all aspects of design and production fundamentals so you can go beyond basics.  Fashion is moving art!   It helps to know functional wear, especially for dancers.
LF:  Kayla had one of my favorite costumes with the vampire type dance she did in the tutu. How did you channel Goth Vampire without being too "Twilight" or "True Blood?"
SA:  I wanted Kayla to wear something pretty, designer, and trendsetting. We all know what the stereotype of Goth Vampire is... I used that idea as the basis for the costume but then I put my own flair into it by adding many details and an element of dance into her outfit.
LF:  The men's costumes are always simple and pretty much close to menswear but need to take the movement into consideration as well. Can you tell me about some of the fabrics you use?
SA:  I make sure the fabric content has some spandex. You can pick pretty fabrics with sheen and lycra... also cutting on the bias helps a lot. Stretchy, stretchy, stretchy is key!
LF:  Do you ever design anything on your own or that can be purchased in stores for either dancers or just regular consumers?
SA:  That is under construction at the moment. But I have received a few messages on Facebook asking for some custom pieces.

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