Each season a new wave of designers grace the catwalks and showroom spaces in the hottest fashion capitals of the world. In a trend driven business editors wax poetic about colors and shapes, buyers create their “it” lists, but we at Nolcha Métier like to single out those who we feel will not only make an impact, but a profit this spring.
Joseph Altuzarra: After working at Proenza Schouler and Givenchy, Altuzarra came out for his NYC Fashion Week debut with guns ablazing. His cuts were perfect and modern, his dresses were coveted by socialites and his line is currently being fought over by buyers. The concentration to the waist without being to feminine was our favorite characteristic of this collection.
Andy and Debb: When a Design team sites frosting as an inspiration for their collection viewers expect to see frothy pastels and cartoony concoctions but this duo paired volume on top with length on the bottom and added a bit of flounce to the ever present trend of “dress dressing” for the workplace. Our favorite was a bit of an homage to YSL with the “Le-smoking-esque” vest.
dIETERbENNET: The spelling may be quirky, but the form of the garments are anything but. Citing inspiration in how the soft organic lines of nature are caged in by the angular man made forms of the city’s historic architecture, this duo uses precision and understated details to display a quiet luxury. The black coat is a stand-out piece that has a fluidity not seen since the original Jil Sander launch.
Julian Louie: Only an architecture student would be able to fuse scuba zippers and Swarovski crystals, but the result were a series of hot little mini dresses that nipped in at the right places and flared out in others… basically a younger hipper version of Jonathan Saunders.
Nicholas Kirkwood: Every girl likes a “wow shoe” and Kirkwood gives us just that. After collaborating with Rodarte this season, editor’s everywhere saw the wearability of his skyscrapers. Each shoe, like a winged-venus with his signature platform has unique detailing like crochet lace or Swarovski crystals, making him the next sculptor in the shoe world…where is Carrie Bradshaw when we need her?
Rad Hourani: Black has always been the favorite non-color of the fashion industry. Hourani sent down 26 impeccable looks in head to toe carbon with details as rich as stiff shoulders, slashed venting and faux fur. All of the tunic shapes were easy but still three-dimensional. In a season of relatively pretty, Rad Hourani was pretty cool.
RanHee Joo: From the lips of every editor this season’s “it bag” is the clutch. We saw large floppy ones, embellished ones and structured ones but with a degree in Industrial Design from RISD, Joo created a classic take on the coveted shape of the season. Knowing that a functional handbag is not an “add-on” but a necessity for women, her little black clutch holds everything you need and is easy to grab while clutching your coffee, keys ipod and anything else you need to jaunt around the city.
Yossi Harari: Inspired by the ancient artifacts beautiful metals found in his native Israel Harari has been in the jewelry making business for over 10 years, but 2008 brought on a star-studded following from Katie Couric to Kate Hudson and the success is growing. We think his oxidized sterling silver clutch is the perfect piece to wear with all of those 1980’s power babes you will see walking around the city thanks to Balmain and Givenchy.
Amali: With a mix of hand-craftsmanship and high fashion Sara Freedenfeld started her line after a back-packing expedition in South America. This pink textile earring (pink tourmaline, citrine and 18k gold) is perfect for that woman who isn’t brave enough to wear the fringe trend as a garment but stylish enough to know that fringe is it for spring.
Cheet London: So nude and muted greys were seen in 85% of the collections from New York to Paris. Emily Cheetham designed a series of bags named after famous Marilyn Monroe film characters and the supple leathers and sophisticated palette mixed with unmistakable curves couldn’t be more Marilyn. It was hard to pick just one but this Rose Slouchy bag will serve everyone well the entire spring season.
(Photo left column: Joseph Altuzzarra, dIETERbENNET, Nicholas Kirkwood, RanHee Joo, Amali; right column: Andy & Debb, Julien Louie, Rad Hourani, Yossi Harari, Cheet London)
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