Finally one rainy, cold Spring day in NYC I was able to get an interview with Thomas Trube, Director of Operations at KESNER, a menswear store located in New York City’s West Village.
KESNER is a very cozy, bi-level shop usually carrying about 25 well edited designer collections each season and 10 designers, exclusive to Kesner. Thomas led me down to the lower level which looks more like an exclusive club than a place where sale items are housed. Plush chairs, velvet sofa, soft lighting AND a fully stocked bar!! Kevin Oliver Tucker: Who’s bright idea was it to open another menswear store in NYC, especially now? Thomas Trube: Well the owners Philip Silverman and Matthew Simon, two half brothers, couldn’t find one place to shop that fit their sense of style so they decided to open their own.
KOT: Who is the KESNER man?
TT: He’s conservative with a twist, interested in fit, style and accessibility; he’s definitely has a more mature mentality and is not chasing the new “it” trend. If JFK Jr. were still alive, we’d like to think he would be our ideal man. We also like the character Chuck Bass from Gossip Girl.
KOT: How do you determine what’s in and what’s out each season?
TT: Well it is a collaborative effort between the three of us. Luckily we all have a similar sense of style. We find our designers by visiting showrooms, our own research, by word of mouth and from friends. We also go to the Tranoi and Capsule shows in Paris.
KOT: How were the Paris shows this season?
TT: There was a very different feeling as only a selected few from each store or magazine were there as opposed to the usual entourage. The collections were “safer” and runways shows were down-sized. The recession is a worldwide concern, not just a problem affecting the U.S.
KOT: What are some key pieces for Spring 09 that every guy should own?
TT: A Burkman Brothers short; a light colored blue denim; a double breasted blazer; a canvas shopper and colorful medium size sunglasses like the ones we carry, L.G.R. from Italy.
KOT: Give me some tips for Fall 09, what must I start saving for now? What can’t I live without?
TT: Every guy needs to own a pair of wingtip shoes whether it’s in canvas or leather, for casual or dress and a wool –or- wool/cashmere, ¾ double breasted coat in black.
KOT: What about color for Fall `09?
TT: Well we will be carrying a lot of color for Fall 09 across all categories: outerwear, knitwear, wovens (prints, plaids) but not bottoms.
KOT: And for Fall 09 what did you see in bottoms because when I was at Pitti Uomo everyone wore really narrow leg trousers?
TT: The drop crotch pant (think MC Hammer) was very prevalent in many collections. Also at the designer level were wide leg pants but I think most collections will be somewhere between a narrow leg and a wide leg. Our buys are usually more top driven, pants are a bit harder maybe because men don’t like trying them on.
KOT: And specifically for KESNER, what does your crystal ball hold?
TT: We will be re-launching two exclusive designers for the U.S. market. WHO, I promise I won’t tell? (at this point I notice his glass is empty so I head over to the bar). We’re also going to start carrying footwear and there could be a KESNER woman in future.
KOT: Who will she be?
TT: Since we think the Kesner Man would be JFK Jr., the Kesner woman would probably be Carolyn Bisset Kennedy Jr. but more natural.
KOT: What about future locations?
TT: We’re definitely looking at opportunities in other areas of the country as well as a possible second location here in NYC. Well at this point my time was up, our glasses were empty so I figured I’d try again. Oh, by the way who did you say you were launching for Spring? He just smiled and said “we’ve gone across the pond to find this one.” Not exactly the answer I was looking for…HUMPH, could I be losing my charm? -Kevin Oliver Tucker
KESNER 540 Hudson Street,
New York City ph:212-206-6330
website: www.kesner-ny.com
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