Competition | Innovation Launched from Ethical Fashion Forum
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Wednesday, April 29, 2009
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INNOVATION Competition Launched this week from Ethical Fashion Forum in
Syracuse University just completed their 22nd Annual Senior Collection Fashion Show on April 24, 2009. A juried show where students had to show one piece of their final collection to participate, the event was worth the wait and hard work.Over 1,000 people in the audience were treated to a catwalk where forty-five seniors showed a six piece collection. Of these students, 14 have been chosen to participate in our NYC Fashion Show/ Visual and Performing Arts event to be held on June 3, 2009 at the JP Morgan Chase Park Avenue Office in Midtown. The chosen students are as follows.
Meredith Banzhoff
Elisha Beinart
Sara Efron
Kristin Hollins
Christa Johnson
Stephanie Latocha
Ayaka Matsui
Anthony Palmieri
Chan Mi Park
Lindsey Scarlatelli
Lacey Seltzer
Randi Spoon
Tara Strobach
Laura Zailac
Meredith Banzhoff
Elisha Beinart
Sara Efron
Kristin Hollins
Christa Johnson
Stephanie Latocha
Ayaka Matsui
Anthony Palmieri
Chan Mi Park
Lindsey Scarlatelli
Lacey Seltzer
Randi Spoon
Tara Strobach
Laura Zailac
(Photo of Laura Zailac above, below Sara Efron's collection)
We really love Laura Zailac’s use of color in her fabrics and Sara Efron’s cut choices for both dresses and pants, which in student designs is not easily accomplished. Stay tuned for coverage of the Manhattan show…
Joanna Marcellathe founder of the FDC the Young Designer Awards and Christie Dinham, CEO International Designer Show (New York
Following the success of the Young Designer Awards, Joanna aims to host a Young Designer Show which will create exposure and raise the profile of exceptionally gifted young fashion designers from multi-cultural backgrounds.
Joanna Marcella says, “Our Vision Is to see the day when young designers from all ethnic backgrounds are as well known, as the main stream fashion leaders, and their names roll off the tongue of the average consumer, as easily as we say John Galliano, Stella McCartney or Alexander McQueen”.
Christie Dinham who previously had a successful career as a fashion model after she was discovered by prominent British designer Vivienne Westwood, s launching the UK leg of the International Model Search in the show to find a male and a female model who will win a all expense trip to New York to model in the international designer show at New York Fashion week and will be introduced to top modelling agents and photographers during the trip.
The Young Designer Show will bring together the crème of new fashion talent to network and make contacts, and identify those who have the potential to break through the boundaries of creativity and become fashion leaders of the future. Selection will take place early May 2009.
Finally one rainy, cold Spring day in NYC I was able to get an interview with Thomas Trube, Director of Operations at KESNER, a menswear store located in New York City’s West Village.
KESNER is a very cozy, bi-level shop usually carrying about 25 well edited designer collections each season and 10 designers, exclusive to Kesner. Thomas led me down to the lower level which looks more like an exclusive club than a place where sale items are housed. Plush chairs, velvet sofa, soft lighting AND a fully stocked bar!! Kevin Oliver Tucker: Who’s bright idea was it to open another menswear store in NYC, especially now? Thomas Trube: Well the owners Philip Silverman and Matthew Simon, two half brothers, couldn’t find one place to shop that fit their sense of style so they decided to open their own.
KOT: Who is the KESNER man?
TT: He’s conservative with a twist, interested in fit, style and accessibility; he’s definitely has a more mature mentality and is not chasing the new “it” trend. If JFK Jr. were still alive, we’d like to think he would be our ideal man. We also like the character Chuck Bass from Gossip Girl.
KOT: How do you determine what’s in and what’s out each season?
TT: Well it is a collaborative effort between the three of us. Luckily we all have a similar sense of style. We find our designers by visiting showrooms, our own research, by word of mouth and from friends. We also go to the Tranoi and Capsule shows in Paris.
KOT: How were the Paris shows this season?
TT: There was a very different feeling as only a selected few from each store or magazine were there as opposed to the usual entourage. The collections were “safer” and runways shows were down-sized. The recession is a worldwide concern, not just a problem affecting the U.S.
KOT: What are some key pieces for Spring 09 that every guy should own?
TT: A Burkman Brothers short; a light colored blue denim; a double breasted blazer; a canvas shopper and colorful medium size sunglasses like the ones we carry, L.G.R. from Italy.
KOT: Give me some tips for Fall 09, what must I start saving for now? What can’t I live without?
TT: Every guy needs to own a pair of wingtip shoes whether it’s in canvas or leather, for casual or dress and a wool –or- wool/cashmere, ¾ double breasted coat in black.
KOT: What about color for Fall `09?
TT: Well we will be carrying a lot of color for Fall 09 across all categories: outerwear, knitwear, wovens (prints, plaids) but not bottoms.
KOT: And for Fall 09 what did you see in bottoms because when I was at Pitti Uomo everyone wore really narrow leg trousers?
TT: The drop crotch pant (think MC Hammer) was very prevalent in many collections. Also at the designer level were wide leg pants but I think most collections will be somewhere between a narrow leg and a wide leg. Our buys are usually more top driven, pants are a bit harder maybe because men don’t like trying them on.
KOT: And specifically for KESNER, what does your crystal ball hold?
TT: We will be re-launching two exclusive designers for the U.S. market. WHO, I promise I won’t tell? (at this point I notice his glass is empty so I head over to the bar). We’re also going to start carrying footwear and there could be a KESNER woman in future.
KOT: Who will she be?
TT: Since we think the Kesner Man would be JFK Jr., the Kesner woman would probably be Carolyn Bisset Kennedy Jr. but more natural.
KOT: What about future locations?
TT: We’re definitely looking at opportunities in other areas of the country as well as a possible second location here in NYC. Well at this point my time was up, our glasses were empty so I figured I’d try again. Oh, by the way who did you say you were launching for Spring? He just smiled and said “we’ve gone across the pond to find this one.” Not exactly the answer I was looking for…HUMPH, could I be losing my charm? -Kevin Oliver Tucker
KESNER 540 Hudson Street,
New York City ph:212-206-6330
website: www.kesner-ny.com
“From the Mountains of Italy” emerged a no- nonsense label called Donald J. Pliner. His shoes are known for comfort and style, yet nary a stiletto. Can heels still be comfortable? The answer comes to us via Lisa Pliner.
Donald’s wife Lisa has created her own collection of fashion forward footwear. Nolcha sent Oriana DiNella to see the new collection and get down to the sole of situation. Nolcha: After working with your husband Donald Pliner for 10 years what made you want to create your own collection?
Lisa Pliner: I was constantly around the business. Being the wife of Donald Pliner, I saw the whole design process from start to finish. I wanted to take Donald’s designs and kick it up a notch, make it edgier. I wanted to do comfort with an edge.
N: How has your education and background in couture cultivated your design aesthetic?
LP: Growing up, my mother was a fashion designer. I wanted to be an artist, so I decided to study fine arts. Creativity was in my genes. I went to the Art Institute where I received a graphic visual degree. From there I wanted to work in a high-end store and Neiman Marcus was the one I chose. I was then absolutely determined to work at Versace’s first store in Miami. After multiple interviews I got the position and I stayed for 2 years. From there I headed back to school, and worked as a receptionist. It was there that I was connected with Donald J Pliner. We went on a date and he made me draw a shoe! I knew from our first date that he would be the man I was going to marry. I was thrown right into the shoe design business with Donald. When cultivating my design aesthetic, I thought about what I wanted and who I am. I am a wife, mother and businesswoman. I need something to suit my life and it has to make me feel sexy.
N: Donald J. Pliner shoes are known for merging fashion and comfort. How are you ensuring that your collection has the same standards?
LP: I looked at what women want. We are constantly running around. I know what they want and it is to be sexy yet comfortable. I wanted something new and fresh to bring to the table.
N: What advice do you have for women working in the fashion industry?
LP: Check yourself in the mirror before you go out! Practice walking in high heels! (laughs) You must have a positive mindset and be comfortable in your own skin. It is great to participate in trends, but above all you have to be comfortable in what you are wearing and designing. If not, it shows. You have to be true to yourself.
N: Are you going to sell the Lisa F. Pliner collection in Donald Pliner stores exclusively or elsewhere and why did you choose that specific retail route?
LP: My line of shoes is going to be sold elsewhere. There will be three styles at the Donald J Pliner stores for people to get a glimpse. Since Donald’s and my shoes are in different market, we are not competing, so there is no problem with me having some of my shoes also for sale in his stores. I am still searching for the specific retail route I want to take. I will know where I want to sell my shoes when I see it. I will go with my gut feeling.
N: Why start your own collection vs. just designing new styles under the Donald J. Pliner name?
LP: People have constantly asked me when I would start my own shoe line! I have always loved shoes and I took what I have learned from Donald to the next step. We are not competing. Donald was so happy he could help me in any way possible because designing shoes is something I absolutely love.
N: What do you think women really want in a shoe?
LP: Women want comfort, height, feeling sexy and wanting to be in that trend.
N: You have done a lot of amazing work in philanthropy, Peace for the Children Foundation specifically… how does the philanthropic part of your live influence the design/business side of your life on a daily basis?
LP: After some misfortunes, I adopted my daughter Starr, from an orphanage in Kazakhstan. I named her Starr because she is my wish that came true. She will tell you to this day “Mommy wished upon a star and she got me.” She is so special to me. Her name has two r’s because she is extra special. I love giving back and being able to help someone. Donald and I donate time and/or shoes because giving back it such an important part of our lives.
N: Tell me about your shoe line. What inspired the colors and the design?
LP: I wanted my shoes sexy, but also something you could walk in. I added traction to the bottom. I added it because I was thinking about when you go into a restaurant and the floor is so slick. The sole is also green because I was thinking about the environment and the whole green movement. The blue in the collection is inspired from Miami. I did not use real skins because the prints look amazing! My shoes are produced it Italy. They will be starting at $425.
N: Any additional words of advice?
LP: There is no direct route in life. You have to stay positive and keep going and everything will fall into place. I absolutely hate the word no! You have to do things in life for yourself and no one else. Put yourself first, put yourself out there, take risks and go get exactly what you want!
The Business of Style: Does Anyone Get Excited About Fashion Anymore?
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Monday, April 20, 2009
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Business of Style: Does Anyone Get Excited About Fashion Anymore?
Are there any fashion fiends whose toes tingle when they see a real model on the cover of a magazine? Do any of you rush out to see the new Givenchy bag in person, or eat edamame and hot lemon water just so you can squeeze into a Balmain mini? Have you ever heard the name of a new designer and thank God you have the iPhone so you can look it up and potentially buy something just so you are ahead of the trend pack? Does anyone get excited about fashion anymore?I ask this after my week of 18 hour days. Which started when my incomparable Design Director and dear friend, Markus Ketty and I set out to create the images of our next “Introducing” design feature. While hair and makeup was being completed the clouds started to roll in, and there was a minute rain delay. No worries, MK and I bidded our time talking about vintage Leger, the first Versus ads and the shoes we were going to put with the single-shoulder one piece. Genieveve, who has one of the biggest money-making faces around (and left straight for the Roxy campaign after we had our way with her) stopped her trail mix eating and boyfriend texting to ask about fashion, what to look for, what to keep from shoots, which designers she should want to walk for etc.
There are those that do their job, and those that love their job. Then there are those that love fashion. These are very different categories. Women work a 14 hour day and still have time to blog on-line about the secret boutique in the West Village that still has vintage Halston. Men put an extra spring in their step when someone notices that their shirt is indeed Thomas Pink and not Brooks Brothers. And yet others watch the award shows every season, not for the films, but for the dresses, and have what Babs wore in 1969 committed to perfect memory.
Where did you go? Why can I not find you?
I am inspired by my friends. Paulina who when he saw May’s Vogue couldn’t wait to write a letter to the editor stating praise at the model packed issue. Alex who scours the globe for new designers I can feature, not as her job, but just because she loves to. Ivana Nohel who knows more about fashion history than most professors. Gracie who I have seen with my own eyes replicate the Bjork swan costume as well as the Grindhouse Rose McGowen legless number to such perfection she should head up Fox’s wardrobe department. RG who swears he has the best collection of men’s staples around and will easily give you fitting advice between closing financial deals and John, fair John, who has a Façonable chemise that he covets so loyally that he would pay out of pocket to put them back into production. The chemise is really just a pull-over, but he romanticizes it so perfectly that we just let him have his moment.
But I am starting to think that I have collected my little clique because they are the only people as passionate about fashion as I am. Where did the rest of you go?
In the past six months I have been watching brands scrape by. We have all read the newspaper and sales numbers look grim Our ears are saturated with “how to save this” and “re-market yourself by doing that.” Where is the purity? The general art of the fashion industry? Why can’t we talk about how happy we are to have more style outlets than ever before? Our grandmothers did not have virtual closets, and yet they seemed to figure out ways to get dressed in the morning Depression and all!
I am concerned that our grand-children are going to be sitting on land-fills of Zara, with-out anything to show from our history.
So tell me what you love, what you will never toss out of your closet. What will you wait-list for no matter what? Who do you think is the best new designer around? Where is your favorite place to shop… even to dream? If Audrey can do it through the windows of Tiffany’s so can we.
E-mail me on Facebook, tell me something happy, no more knock-off crisis, no more “stocks are down” just cool, sleek fashion fabulous-ness!
And if Jen Marden’s face, when I unveiled a skull patterned Swarovski crystal clutch by Joann Huth at our store opening last Thurday is any indication that style lovers are still out there then let me know you still exist, because after 18 hour days in three different cities on six different flights, I spent my spare time last night, talking Wimbledon hats and researching ascot options, because there is no break from fashion!
-Lynn Furge(Genieveve of Mc@mm in Agnes Valentine; Lynn showing Jen Marden skull bag by Joann Huth)
So this week, my Outlook has been saturated with e-mails from designers, showrooms, boutiques and fashion reps all looking for the same thing.
That coveted spot in our “Introducing” article or a place in the sleek revolving “Ones to Watch” yet alas each e-mail has neglected to have the two key things that will take the message from “skim”to “reply” a photo of the product and price point.
-Lynn Furge
A focused niche of Warriors, Nomads, Rebels and Travelers swarmed the runways for the Menswear Fall 09 collections. The coat was huge, and by that we mean the focal point of most ensembles. Armor type details like razor sharp cuts and “Kevlar” woven accents intertwined with lots of texture details in each collection. Grey’s, blacks and ominous slate or dusty blues monopolized the color palette except for the pop of bright orange seen more as a “warning” effect vs. a bright sunny welcoming of the autumn sun. Heavy cable knit mufflers and dramatic scarves accessorized almost every collection, and even those designers that did lighten up the severity did so with tiered layers instead of breezy pieces. Nolcha has scoured the runways for the best collections and hottest trends of Fall 2009.
(Images Left Column: Alexander McQueen, Ducky Brown, Rag and Bone, Robert Geller; Right Column: Ann Demeulemeester, Prada, Rick Owens, Z Zegna)
Alexander McQueen: Skinny pants and exaggerated coats. Fingerless gloves and broad shoulders, McQueen’s man was ready for fighting. Many editors saw reference to Gangs of New York days still aside from the spectacle that is always McQueen, crisp wearable garments crafted beautifully to fit a powerful man was the essence of the collection, Wall Street and Bond Street take note… if you want to look like you are taking back control this winter, buy a McQueen coat. It will put you back on your high horse.
Ann Demeulemeester: Nomads, welcome, with knee high boots, cavalry jackets and ropey scarves. A bit poetic, a bit costumey at times but only because of the top hats, yet the structure was still there and with men’s tailoring that is a must. To add beauty to the severe black and white palette Demeulemeester wove rosettes into the velvet and added shimmering pailettes to basics giving it more of a “new day romance.” Hope is not all lost.
Ducky Brown: Ready for battle or “Outbreak” one is not quite sure, Duckie Brown designers Steven Cox and Daniel Silver showcased hand-embroidered quilting, heavy mufflers, bright orange waxed jackets and ninja-esque black with accompanying masks; hitting each fall trend out of the park. From far away the collection’s beginning could be taken as “basic” but the details in each piece (waxed cotton, knee pad detail, gold beading and the afore mentioned hand quilting) made this collection a top-notch hit for the top spending market.
Prada: Miuccia Prada (and side bar, isn’t it nice to see a designer taking on both men’s and women’s with such reckless abandonment?) explained that her inspiration for her Fall Menswear Collection was “Survival” and it was clearly seen throughout the set and each piece sent down the runway. The power suit, lots of grays, everything cut razor sharp, no room for slack. Giving a basic tailored theme to even the printed shirts and spot on suits Prada evoked well tailored corporate armor for the common man.
Rag and Bone: Back to the ninja’s with baggy tied pants and shades of black and grey and the protective armor “Kevlar” type weaving was present again as well. It was the layering effect of the pieces that brought a fresh look to the collection allowing each piece to be seen not so much in the movement of the models that is often so much the case but in the tiering of multiple lengths of key pieces. David Neville and Marcus Wainwright can be proud of their efforts.
Rick Owens: For his first men’s collection Rick Owens did not disappoint. He held strong to his routes dressing the anti-hero as a whole, but each piece held their own within his sci-fi homage to New York performance artist Klaus Nomi. The glazed military jacket is a must for any style savvy man no matter what their country of origin is, but the skins and furs catapulted the collection to Owens-esque magnitude. And the boots… what last years fold over buckle boot did for Owen’s women’s collection these knee high cavalry types will do for hipsters from Brooklyn to Berlin.
Robert Geller: After winning GQ’s Menswear Designer in America, Robert Geller might have felt that he had to put on a show, so he brought out the theatrics right away, but despite that the collection of skinny pants, military coats, cut-away jackets and lots of leather was really interesting. The textures were spot on. The addition of heavy cabled knits balanced the smooth buttery pants. All in all something to look at.
Z Zegna: Broad shoulders, mammoth over-coats, exaggerated proportions and laminated leathers, Alessandro Sartori designer for Z Zegna displayed Italian drama at its finest. Any sort of bowler paired with severe clothing always conjures up “Clockwork Orange” in my mind, but so taken was I by every pant in this collection that I forgot all about Malcolm McDowell and concentrated on a new way to describe “fresh and classic at the same time.” Evolved was really the only way to describe it.
-Lynn Furge
As the winter rapidly de-thaws, so are America
A late-bloomer when it comes to embracing the spring season, after a long winter, cities like Chicago, Detroit, Philly and even NYC make it known that when residents do bust out of their shells it comes full force.
-Maggie Morgan
As a Leading London Personal Stylist I have clients from all over the world, my clientele is mainly upmarket women. Are these women size zero? Absolutely not.
The most common bodyshape is hourglass and whatever their size my clients complain that fashion does not suit them. They are right.
I am a UK
If you have a waist hipster trousers cut in, at the wrong part of your body and however slim you are the result is a roll of flesh –elegant? I think not.
Hipster skirts ride upand down as the hourglass has no defining flat area, so tops hang out and you are left with about 6 inches of spare material at the back, as the too big top will end up on the waist. This makes the skirt unflattering, at best and it looks like you are wearing someone else’s clothes a much bigger someone. 2 sizes bigger in fact!
To overcome this fashion has designed lots of nifty tops that are either empire line, i.e. cut under the bosom or smock based, i.e. baggy. For the past two years my hourglass clients have all the same complaint. “I can’t wear trousers any more. Skirts no longer suit me, the tops don’t fit me and make me look pregnant.” Many like me refuse point blank to buy them and have very few clothes as a result. I am simply too style conscious to wear clothes that don’t fit me.
I would like to reiterate that the majority of women have hourglass shapes.
So some style rules forthe most desirable shape on the planet:
- Wear fitted clothes.
- Celebrate and exaggerate that great waist.
- Refuse to buy hipster skirts and trousers look for high waisted styles.
- Buy tops that are fitted and shaped to the waist.
- Wear short fitted jackets.
- Buy fitted shift dresses.
- Choose pencil or slightly A line skirts.
- Belt whenever you can.
Vivian Westwood, Roland Mouret, John Galliano, Dolce and Gabbana, Karen Millen, Pinko, Tara Jamon,Thakoon , Victoria
Gabrielle Teare is currently Alexa ranked No 1 globally forPersonal Stylist.
