“We are all moving back to a soulful way of living. The question is what does that statement mean?
I think it is about knowing the source that your garments are coming from. Knowing the designer behind the garment. That is enchanting to the consumer.” And with those words Maria Pinto smiles from her office above her flagship store.
A successful independent fashion designer for over a decade, Pinto is known for her vivid use of color and texture, not to mention making the First Lady look fabulous. Nolcha's Lynn Furge spoke with the designer about knowing her roots and building a fashion empire right from her home town in Chicago.
Lynn Furge: You are famous for your mixing and matching of colors and textiles while still maintaining an elegant silhouette. Please explain what inspires you to choose the fabrics you use?
Maria Pinto: There are a couple directions that take place when choosing fabrics. First it is the inspiration that shifts the structure of the garment and that causes me to make the fabric, as well as comfort and wear ability. I’m always drawn to a juxtaposition of unusual pairings such as alpaca with sequins, as I like things that move in less predictable ways. We are always nurturing our clients to go further with color. Fall is full of color; we want people to pop! My inspiration for Fall 09 was an exhibition at the Cooper Hewitt Museum in NYC, “Rococo the Continuous Curve” (as it influenced history from art nouveau to Frank Gehry. I started developing patterns with this looping curve; it is one pattern piece that creates the entire curve.) The theme of my collection is creating volume through shape.
LF: With a start at Bergdorf Goodman creating accessories, what did you rapidly learn about consumers and the business of retail?
MP: Bergdorf Goodman is one the most amazing stores in the world. Both Bergdorf and Barneys have very distinctive cultures for their brands; they recognize that their brands are spectacular. I always design clothes that make statements, such as Resort pieces that are crafted with hundreds of hand manipulated petals. To sum it up, it is about creating exquisite garments.
LF: With your evening collection, what elements do you take into account in terms of dressing real women?
MP: I try to encourage my clients to consider both cut and fit, the two factors that make a piece extraordinary. For evening you can really have fun and experiment with fantasy. That is where I like to play with texture, color and fabric manipulation as the client is not in an office where she has to be conscientious about protocol.
LF: Re-gaining instant fame for dressing Michelle Obama all eyes are back on your collection… how do you balance fashion trends and consumer retail?
MP: First of all, it was a very natural progression as we already had a strong momentum from private clients in our showroom. I consider this first store as a laboratory. It makes sense to do it as close as possible to my atelier so that I can observe my clients’ experience. It is a catalyst and an extension of the story of the brand. I consider my work art, so the space is reminiscent of a gallery. I think it is accessible and austere, and it transcends the mood of the collection. The space exudes opulent minimalism; we even have a hand painted mural of our lace pattern which is both decorative and sublimely understated.
LF: A native Chicagoan who has had immense success in other markets why did you decide to place you flagship store in Chicago?
MP: Personally, I think people underestimate Chicago as a market place. Women in Chicago are very sophisticated. They travel the world and they can shop anywhere. We provide these women with beautiful garments and a personal touch that they cannot find anywhere else. The handcrafted aspect is a service that we’re especially proud of. Women want more when they shop, so they also come to Maria Pinto for the experience.
LF: How were you able to create a true Maria Pinto aesthetic with the retail space?
MP: I think that Scott Heuvelhorst (the interior designer) captured it beautifully. It is more than just an extension of the collection, but an extension of my way of life. The chairs are by Patricia Urquiola, complimenting the sleek beautiful chandeliers. It is a serene, inviting place.
LF: What would you like to tell young designers about starting a career in fashion?
MP: The most important thing that I would say is that fashion is an industry. Not everyone is going to be a designer; there are writers, buyers and a pattern makers. Think about yourself and your passion within the industry. Know that there are a variety of choices so it’s important get as much experience as possible before starting your own business. Lastly, always work with people whom you respect.
LF: How has your longevity in the Chicago marketplace taught you about what women want?
MP: Honestly as a designer, I don’t think about it. I trust my intuition and my instincts. If you are noticing a trend now, you are really too late. As a designer, you need to be ahead of the “given trend” and I am like a sponge. I’m extremely observant in that I listen to women in terms of their needs and how their lives are changing. Then I take my inspiration, lock myself in my design room and start creating. It is a very natural process for me. As I tell all of the students that I have the opportunity to speak with, one needs need to be tuned in with the world and what is going on around her.
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