The Academy of Art San Francisco out did themselves this season opening with Marina Solomatnikova ( a Russian born luxury designer following the theme of this weeks opening events). Lavish silk colors fell onto the suits like blossoming flowers and the quirky little safari hats accompanied the silk and suede combination beautifully.
Bethany Meuleners concentrated more on knitwear with very deconstructed maxi pieces that incorporated chiffon overlays. She described a “young girl playing dress-up” therefore chose to make the layer off-kilter and the sheer elements were inspired by Duchamp’s Nude Descending a Staircase.
Naomi Sutton continued the maxi theme but brought in a dust bowl element . She used intaglio etchings as inspiration for her textile design and the Steinbeck lengths (all to the floor) as well as color palette (cream with hints of black in belts and bows) brought us back to the prarie. The hats were a lovely touch as were the uses of lace amongst the layers.
Hyo Sun An looped, looped and relooped wool, wool jersey and rayon jersey to create a boundy of interesting yet still wearable shapes. Influenced by the Mobius strip and Klein bottle the combination was almost mathematical in terms of placement but soft and sensual due to the movement of the loops.
Steven Oo made it a pleasure to see sweaters come down the runway. His Merino wool knitwear collection (more dresses than actual sweaters) had structure, scales, sculptural elements, cocooning techniques weight and ribbing, producing almost a modern armor for the chic utilitarian (his collection was black white and grey) Our favorite of the entire run, Oo will go far.
Sabah Mansoor Husain
By felting fabrics, incorporating crochet, binding, stitching, folding and twisting her knitwear her chandelier inspired collection was the needed glitz after some more serious collections. Not that Husain was frivolous. It is just that in the gloomy climate of fall, one needs a bit of metallic to pop the wardrobe, proving that the designer both understands her craft as well as the consumer. Our favorite was the fitted knit vest with multicolored crystals that looked like stained glass.
-Lynn Furge
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