Key Trends
- Deconstruction: Inside detailing made a cameo on the outside with raw and couture encased seams appearing on the surface. The look was further explored using feature lining and exposed pocket bags giving a Multi faceted Layered effect, subtly executed in tonal dark colors.
- Couture detailing: Attention to detail with luxurious touches including detachable sheepskin collars, quilted elbow pads, couture seaming detail, embroidered finishes and Leather elbow panels extending down to the cuff. Unusual functional features appeared hidden in jacket linings, best of all was a tweed jacket with two side by side inner pockets, both for your mobile, one marked 'on' and the other marked 'off' lined in silver nylon to naughtily block your phone signal when you don't want to receive calls.
- Relaxed tailoring: While jacket cuts stay safely within the realms of tradition, trousers become less restrictive with a relaxed utilitarian feel. We are finally seeing the departure of the slim fit trouser after its 5 year reign in favour of a looser fitting silhouette. The new trouser line is still quite neat with a slightly tapered leg and retaining a tailored appearance while appearing in soft comfortable fabrics like felt, flannel and jersey. Gathered extended waist bands, draping and slightly dropped crotches were all executed with subtlety, offering a modern take on tailoring without stepping out of your comfort zone, literally!
- Modern take on Heritage: 'English gentleman meets English eccentric' Many brands returned to their British heritage using traditional fabrics and cuts and updating the look with a modern edge. It was all in the detailing with club blazers sporting feature zip edges, double lapels and contrast piping. Plaids were bolder and contrasted with block colour panels. Classic cuts were revolutionised in unconventional fabrics such as jersey, waxed cotton and even hessian - thankfully lined for comfort! Barbour and shooting jackets were popular and of course the military look was as prevalent as always with button down epaulettes, 4 pocket jackets and military collars.
- Knitwear: Heavy knits dominated and are to be worn as an alternative to jackets including Longer line cable knits and double breasted Arron cardigans with shawl collars in creamy hues. Also of relevance were asymmetric lines and seams and textural pieces.
- Colors of the season: Desert shades were hot property in camel, dirty mustard and khaki, contrasting nicely with the creamy hued Arron knits and shearlings. Burgundy was a frequent player complimenting darker shades of brown nicely. All shades of grey reigned supreme and of course black will always be dominant in winter.
- Lynsay McConachie
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