A select group of fashion experts and 10,000+ micro-journalists descended upon Bryant Park for a final time this fall all to savor the newness that is Spring 2010. “Classic American Sportswear” they said “Peek-a-Boo Cut outs, geometric inlays.” But then one trip across the pond and the geometric trends merged into graphic prints between geometric suiting with some inlayed bondage girl pieces in London; which in turn became military jackets and lingerie inspired elements with lots of leg in Milan that took us to the infamous Paris where amongst the frill and froth, we met with sleek classic separates that embodied tailored skill.All in all, each fashion capital has its own identity but to an independent fashion business it is important to go beyond the obvious, and pick out the trends that will actually affect their future business. So we at Nolcha look within the trends to bring something new (you want to talk about the draping, let’s look at the new “Bandage Drape.” Interested in basics? Say hello to the T-shirt dress? Joining the armed forces bandwagon? This season the jackets are of the pop star variety). Find out who set did it best and click on the actual trend to see details.
The Bondage Pant: Previously reserved for “Gothic tough girls” or rock stars on stage, the bondage pant has become this year’s skinny pant. Valentino’s Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli with their soft and hard contrast of a nude rosette blouse and wispy trouser made the bondage effect look like ribbons which brought the trend off the streets and into society.
Summer weight Leather: Buttery, smooth, sleek and straight, earth-toned sheaths, liquid draped wraps and tone-on-tone separates became Spring 2010’s version of classic chic. Giles, Elise Øverland, Cerruti and Balenciaga all had varieties, but it was Phoebe Philo atCeline who exuded flawless modern style with her sleek ready-to-wear pieces of leather pull-over shrugs, long pants, a monochromatic color palette and cinnamon sheath dress that stunned the crowds and had editor’s proclaiming a “Celine Revival”
The Gender Bender: Girls dressed as boys came in multiple forms down the runway. From Victor/Victoria suits to athletic hoodies the menswear trend ran rampant. Ralph Lauren’s Steinbeck references and beautifully tailored suits made us want to crop our hair and loose the lip gloss.
Liquid Lightening: Lamé, Lurex and undoubtedly lavish, which ever way you cut it the metallics were molten this spring. Placed intricately into bodices, dripping off of shoulders and poured onto bodies like trophies, tones of gold, silver, copper and bronze all had a presence. This was not a nod to Disco and it certainly wasn’t a regal affair. If a designer chose to use a full metallic it was monochromatic and fabric based, instead of coming in the form of sequins, beading or bangles. When it comes to metallic one thinks glamour and Versace, the Queen of Glam produced some red-carpet worthy gowns that had metallic pieced bodices which were sculptural, pretty, fresh, young and right on target for what women want for evening.
The Naked Palette: From dresses to shorts, filmy chiffon to full out plumes colors like mannequin cream, soft beige, peach nectar or rose petal, made the go to palette naked this season. Gianfranco Ferré’s Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi's collection of weightless modern soft bubble skirts and poufy draped waists (a huge trend found throughout spring) walking next to lamé and lurex made it to the top of our list..
The Globetrotter: Spring and summer breeds the element of travel and although the usual suspects produced their mix and match exotic textiles, newcomers to the trend came out to represent. Mixing traditional ikat prints done on simple polo-collared shirt dresses with the actual fringy-tasseled collage of bags, Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton exemplified the traveler in a new young flirty way.
Sunwashed Separates: Bright but bleached, complimentary colors and slouchy shapes in a desaturated palette. For those that chose to use color this season, much of it was mixed and matched into sunwashed separates. Peter Pilotto, London’s wünderkind still produced his trademark printed, draped mini-dresses, but by lightening up on the fabrics and giving each piece a pearlized effect, the desaturated hues were this season’s most original interpretation of the trend.
The New Ruffles: Lettuce ruffles, sculpted around the bodice, defining shoulders and wrapping around necks. The new ruffle serves more in a silhouette making form rather than a nod to bohemia. By taking out the flounce the trend took an architectural stance on construction. Marc Jacobs with his plethora of curlicue ruffles taking over entire outfits that had the leafy trend conquered.
Outgoing Intimates: Innerwear worn as outerwear. Whether it was Madonna who started the trend back in the 80’s or Queen Victoria with her corsettes in hand spun lace, boning and bra tops beckoned this spring. At Preen’s New York show the British based duo of Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi made lingerie the most realistic for buyers implementing lace, cording/piping, a nude palette and silky draped dresses all paired with soft cardis and broad shoulders evoking romance for the women today instead of a “throwback” trend.
The Brief: We don’t know if it is Beyonce’s Sasha Fierce or Gaga, the Lady herself who set the trend, but the lack of pants was dually noted on the runways. Seen mostly in Milan where legs were all the rage it was Derek Lam in New York who challenged the audience into believing that wintering in warmth was more than a lifestyle choice but a must. By adding ready-to-wear details on his one-pieces he gave us a much needed somewhere to go with this trend, which is a pool-side cabana of course.Either way, as the trends evolve, new designers have the ability to think in provocative ways about not only shape but purpose, taking what is now mainstream and turning it into something completely all their own. Which is why we track this business called fashion in the first place.
-Lynn Furge
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