As a celebration of Chicago’s thriving fashion industry, Macy’s featured the work of 12 Chicago-based designers for it’s fifth year running. This show also included the designers participating in the 2009 Class of the Chicago Fashion Incubator, a local program that allows six emerging designers the opportunity to turn Macy’s State Street into their “Office, Sales Floor, Showroom and Design Studio” for a complete year all while being mentored by industry professionals.
The theme of the show this season was “wet”, joked Macy’s External and Media Relations VP Andrea Schwartz as the rain came down soaking shoes, pants and hemlines, but as we say in fashion… “the show must go on” and rain or shine the tent was packed and the crowd was enthused.
Lara Miller
Lara Miller opened the show with her not to be missed knitwear. All organic and working in textiles such as hand-loomed bamboo, recycled cotton Miller gave the audience a fresh youthful look at sweater-dressing with cute little legwarmers and beautiful mesh knit gauchos that hit right to the 40’s trend. The show infused some beautiful raw silk organza dresses and closed the show with a sexy open back tank dress in pool blue that slithered down the runway hot enough to make the audience forget the raindrops outside.
Blake Standard
Blake Standard brought us a Parisian take on basics for his 10 piece collection. A palette of red, black and white accented in berets. Basic jersey cotton styled with perfect elements of grometed snaps large accented collars and ruffles took over the runway for a sure-fire saleable collection.
5p1t
Opening the show with an aggressive use of grass green, 5p1t’s Richard and Darryl Sneed popped some life into the gloomy evening. The green fed into garden motif prints, ruffles and feminine classic tailoring and closed with green/navy seersucker pieces paired with khaki with great details for spring like a larger collar and a flouncy hemline. 5p1t is what Ann Taylor wishes they were and what Cynthia Rowley needs to look out for.
Tennile White
The audience cheered as Tennile White sent full-figured models down the runway. The color palette of gold, peach and seafoam was pretty. Stand-outs were the Peach/cream long dress with large floral pattern and the cream fluttersleeve dress with bud belt, all gliding down the runway and Chicago red-carpet ready.
Lauren Lein
A plethora of texture came out at Laura Lein. Silk blazers with portrait collars, belted fringy coats, natural straw hats. Fit for a suburban garden party each look was put together well to turn out an entire “outfit” The Raspberry, orange and brown tiered feather dress was a miss and should have been better edited.
Lee Alison and the Tie Bar
You have to have something for the gentlemen… and both Lee Alison and the Tie Bar pulled together a quickie presentation with cute men in bowler hats and garters, think Chicago version of British Banker. Alison showed tones of yellow, light blue and purple in an homage to the “mod” movement. The Tiebar countered the sentiment with some paisley detail, but all came together nicely.
Jermikko
Jermikko has a large fan base in the Chicago fashion community, however the collection this evening was a miss. Lots of grey ivory and black looked to basic to be called spring. Color came into the collection 3/4 ‘s of the way through but it zigzagged beyond the general clean simple clothing that was put out first. Bright yellow, black and red long taffeta skirts paired with trench coats looked way too mismatched coming down the runway and was even more so up close in the front row. The final piece a beautifully crafted grey and silver halter gown with cascading back ribbon detail was an honest stunner… STUNNER, but the model couldn’t even begin to walk in it, which even on Project Runway is a no-no, but for a professional designer, is a shame.
Anna Hovet
Jersey knit, sporty and colorful, Anna Hovets collection of leggings and hoodies goes right along with that classic American sportswear motif that seems to be taking notice for Spring 2010. The black zip front hooded jacked and purple knit lace up legging was as stand-out. Her use of swirl pattern to encorporate more colors into a simple style flatters the silhouette and actually slims the leg allowing a great wearability.
Zamrie
Zamrie’s strong point is her watercolor prints. Pretty, feminine and fit for a wide demographic (which is really what retailers are looking for) the patterns were light and fit for Spring in the windy city. The swing jacket lived up to it’s hype and moved beautifully on the runway. The rest of the collection, almost too basic and simple fell flat.
Furio
Catherine Furio created a surrealistic feeling with her Spring 2010 collection. Pearl pink paired with multi-color lace detail (think Missoni color mixtures with Rykiel weaving). The blazer with looped front a zip cummerbund and back cut outs was exquisite! Editing the collection and paying attention a little more to what real women want, and Furio will be one of the next ones to watch.
Nora Del Busto
The basic idea of a simple cocktail dress or tunic, or gown can still be a showstopper when details are involved. Completely understanding the business of fashion Del Busto unveiled simple beauty. A crème cocktail dress with a cowl neck that referenced a cala lily, A shift with an exposed back. Lace details (with a small floral doily shape to make it modern and light) on a classic shell. When she encorporated prints they were plaid mixed with painterly brushstrokes in a twist on the collage. This is what women want to wear right now.
Cynthia Ryba
The clothing was nicely constructed but not truly memorable and the color palette was poorly edited. Bronze, with olive with marine blue and mustard adding in some gunmetal and black, none of which said spring or “collection”, however the pieces were made well and the silky numbers towards the end of the show were something that would be appropriate for any cocktail party. We were just hoping they would be a little more special.
Audey
If Wallpaper Magazine and Tinsley Mortimer had a baby it would be Audey. Adorable but workable prints. Large florals, lattice and cyclical discs donned full skirts that practically danced down the runway. The inception of gigantic florals brought an element of nostalgia to the collection, but the cut was perfectly current. This collection seems Anthropologie bound.
-Lynn Furge
All Photos by Bryna Faye Shields for Nolcha.com
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